Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Flying Down to Rio

I have switched into short pants and sandals for 100 degree temps in Rio. Yippee!! We have left the “dreary weather” of Bariloche behind us. (BTW, that’s the hotel’s descriptive phrase not mine. The sheet they distributed every night to guests listed available activities and the weather forecast for the following day. They need to reconsider their marketing.)

In contrast, yesterday I was outfitted in waders and special shoes and a life jacket for an afternoon of fly fishing on the Rio Negro with Bob. This was my first attempt at fly fishing and it is now my favorite sport. Love the gear, love the flies—nymphs, dry flies, streamers--love Mario, our charming and adorable fishing instructor but mostly love drifting along the river with absolutely no one in sight just incredible landscape stretching out on either side and gorgeous blue(!) skies with huge white clouds rushing overhead. Utter tranquility.

And best of all, I caught two fish. Well, almost. I was reeling them in slowly, slowly as Mario advised but just at the crucial moment, they each broke for freedom. But what excitement each time when I felt the fish bite and the rod bend!

Can’t wait to buy all my fishing gear this summer. Orvis here I come.


Saturday, December 26, 2009

Bariloche

I am sitting in front of a roaring fire in an adorable wood cabin surrounded by views of snow topped mountains and alpine lakes. This is Bariloche in Argentina. It is also absolutely freezing. The wind is howling, it rains, then the sun comes out, then it rains again. The temperature tonight is supposed to be in the 30's. What happened to summer in Argentina.

It's absolutely charming here though. Sort of like Grossinger's for the goyim. Lots of families celebrating the holidays together. And Bob and Jane and Steve and Ellen comfortably ensconced in our little cabin complete with a deer antler chandeliers and rustic furniture. Only problem is that when we go outside we have to layer on all the clothing we've brought with us in order not to freeze to death.

The good thing is that the wine is cheap and absolutely delicious. And we can have pisco sours whenever we want. Food is suspect especially if you're not an eater of bloody pieces of meat. But at last I got some exercise. (All I did in Buenos Aires was eat, drink and sleep.) Today Jane and I took a about a 2 and a half hour hike up a hill through a beautiful forest. We finished our exercise regime with a yoga class, taught in Spanish, of course, which was an added challenge but lots of fun.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Hola!

We have left the snow and cold far, far behind us.

After some 14 hours in the air, we landed in Buenos Aires, Argentina at 4 am, local time Wednesday morning. Lucky us to be able to make this journey on Toll Air where there was ample room to roam around or sleep, and the inflight menu included goodies from Di Bruno's for lunch followed by colossal stone crabs for dinner.

Not surprisingly, we didn't get out of the room until 2 pm this afternoon for a leisurely boat tour of the delta. Tomorrow we plan to pound the pavements like good little tourists.

Monday, December 21, 2009


Today is the winter solstice--the longest night of the year. It's also the night before Liz and Giuliano leave for Jamaica where they will living and working for who knows how long. (I'm cultivating an open mind about the duration of their sojourn.) I'm sad and happy and scared and excited all at the same time for them. I'll miss them terribly but I am also so proud of the two of them for having the courage to take the leap and make the move. For the last few nights, they've been living back home with Steve and me in Liz's old room. Steve loves it--he can talk sports and real estate to Giul from early in the morning until late at night.

And, of course, in true Solms fashion, we had to have a party to mark their leave taking. Despite the blizzard conditions, some 30 of their friends trekked to our house for a great evening. Those hardy souls who braved the snow enjoyed a menu planned and prepared by Liz with Amira, Abby and I serving as willing and able sous-chefs.

Fortunately, Steve and I take off early tomorrow morning too for an extended vacation--not to Jamaica although, don't worry, I'm already planning a month long visit next year. We're be vacationing for three weeks in South America where it's summer time and hot. I'm ready to samba, tango and soak up the sun!

Friday, December 18, 2009

I Hate Joe Leiberman

I've been sorta following the whole health care battle. It's so damn complicated and so technical that I've found it hard to get a handle on what's really going on. It's up, it's down and suddenly two angry old white men (isn't that always the case)--Joe Leiberman and Ben Nelson--hold the fate of the health care reform in their hands and the rest of us hostage. It's not just confusing, it's nauseating.

But...as Paul Krugman writes today:

A message to progressives: By all means, hang Senator Joe Lieberman in effigy. Declare that you’re disappointed in and/or disgusted with President Obama. Demand a change in Senate rules that, combined with the Republican strategy of total obstructionism, are in the process of making America ungovernable.

But meanwhile, pass the health care bill.

Yes, the filibuster-imposed need to get votes from “centrist” senators has led to a bill that falls a long way short of ideal. Worse, some of those senators seem motivated largely by a desire to protect the interests of insurance companies — with the possible exception of Mr. Lieberman, who seems motivated by sheer spite.

But let’s all take a deep breath, and consider just how much good this bill would do, if passed — and how much better it would be than anything that seemed possible just a few years ago. With all its flaws, the Senate health bill would be the biggest expansion of the social safety net since Medicare, greatly improving the lives of millions. Getting this bill would be much, much better than watching health care reform fail.


Click here to read the entire column.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

My Absolute Favorite Thing in the Whole World...

. . . are my new pair of Uggs. Who would have thought that this one time fashionista known for her closet full of power suits--Whoever is wearing them now, I hope you're they make you happy--would fall so completely in love with a clunky pair--but aren't they almost chic in grey--but oh so comfy boots. Maybe it's because they are so warm and cozy that I cannot bear to take them off my feet. Maybe it's because they were a surprise gift from the happy couple aka Liz and Giuliano.

Friday, December 11, 2009

What Happened in Norway, Stayed in Norway

I didn't listen to Obama's speech. I just read parts on the internet and what I did read was impressive and above all thoughtful...even though I didn't agree with every thing he said. I guess my reaction is similar to this blogger.

"There are people who think presidential politics--from a voter's perspective--is about electing someone who will do exactly what you say and enact every single one of your priorities in exactly the same manner as you would.

And then there are people who think presidential politics--from a voter's perspective--is about electing someone who shares many of your priorities, but not all of them, who may not enact them as you would, and yet whose wisdom you trust. That, for me, is the point.

(. . .)

In that vein, I didn't object to George Bush because he claimed that there was "evil" in the world. I objected to George Bush because there was so much evil that he didn't see, and he was awful at prosecuting the evil he did see. I objected to George Bush's foreign policy because it married a freshman's view of idealism (Big talk on human rights) with a profane, dishonest take one realism (We don't torture.) It's weak to look two presidents, see them both use the word "evil," and then conclude that they're the same.

I expect Obama to be who he campaigned as. But more than that, I expect him to actually think about the world. I expect him to be curious, deliberative, and cool-headed. That's who he is. I often disagree with him. But I don't regret a thing."


What really surprises is how little press and attention his speech received. It wasn't even a page one story in today's NYTimes. I bet most Americans could care less that Obama won the Nobel Peace Prize let alone pay any serious attention to what he said at the official award ceremony.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

WTF Obama

I am really unhappy about Afghanistan. Actually, I am really unhappy about Obama's decision to send more troops into Afghanistan. This is my first real quarrel with Obama and I don't feel comfortable about not agreeing with him. Is this the end of our love affair? Will my hero turn out to have feet of clay?

I was in love with Tiger Woods too and I don't even play golf. But how he's proved himself a stupid asshole like every other dumb fuck with a prick instead of a brain. I don't think Obama would ever do that to Michelle. My god, she'd murder him first with those killer arms of hers and Oprah would banish him from her TV show.

But why did he have to decide to continue the war in Afghanistan, to make the war his own. It's not a country and never has been. I'm reading "The Decline and Fall of British Empire" written in this wonderfully plummy style by some incredibly erudite and fluent British professor and it's all been tried before to no avail.

I can't decide what's worse: Does Obama really believe that he will be the one who wins (whatever that means) the war in Afghanistan or is he pursuing this course just for political expediency? (The Republicans can't label me soft on security.)

Wouldn't the bravest thing, the truest thing to do would be to say, "Fuck it! No more Americans are going to die in Afghanistan. We're out of here." I feel like singing that old song from the '60's--All we are saying is give peace a chance.

Monday, November 30, 2009

Thanksgiving Post Mortem



You know it's a successful Thanksgiving weekend when by Sunday night every guest is gone and every last bit of the dinner has disappeared. I'm left with an empty refrigerator and three pounds to lose. It was worth it.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Thanksgiving is Coming, Part II

High heat, low heat, to stuff or not to stuff, I am in a frenzy about how to cook my turkey. This year I decided to buy a heritage turkey. What this actually means I am not really sure except that it cost a lot and a turkey still had to die to feed my family. Now, after seemingly hours on the web it appears that I cannot cook this bird in the way my mother ordained so many years ago. (See previous post for details.) Ohmigod. My worse nightmare--an overdone, hockey puck turkey reminiscent of dried moccasin instead of the moist and succulent bird traditional on our table. And, may I add, all this agony over a part of the meal that I, a pesco/lacto/ovo vegetarian DO NOT EAT!! Oy vey to say the least.

Well, one thing my research has shown me--I do not have to brine this baby. Thank god. The last two years, I must have gone through a forest full of paper towels sopping up leaking turkey water in my refrigerator from brining bags that NEVER worked. Yuck!

So here's my battle plan: After much soul searching, I have made a decision to NOT stuff the bird. (My heart is beating as I write this.) I will roast it at 350 after massaging disgusting amounts of butter into and under the skin. I will take it out of the oven for the proverbial rest after it reaches an internal temp of 150. I will pray that I have not overcooked it but. . . che sera, sera.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Thanksgiving is Coming!

Fuck politics! Forget about reading! All I can think about right now is Thanksgiving. The holiday officially began for me last Friday when I pulled out my collection of miscellaneous recipes conveniently stored inside an ancient copy of The Silver Palate cookbook. (One year, I made the entire Silver Palate thanksgiving menu.) My recipes are tattered and stained now so I am thinking it might be time to annotate and copy them so that when I hand over my mother's hand painted turkey platter to Liz she'll have a road map for the holiday.

For years after my mom gave up the holiday and ceded me the platter I still called every Thanksgiving morning asking her once again to guide me through the turkey roasting process. Draping the bird with butter soaked cheesecloth, cooking it breast side down and constantly basting were her keys to a moist bird, rules which I continue to obey. I admit I've periodically flirted with the idea of a different cooking method--high heat, a foil tent, cooking the stuffing outside the bird but fear of producing a dry, overdone turkey like my Aunt Roz always prepared holds me back. My mom really did know best. Anyway, as Liz always tells me, Thanksgiving is all about tradition. No major changes allowed! I've managed to sneak in a few new things over the years--an apricot chutney that is faintly Indian in flavor, a luscious onion confit from Alice Waters--but god forbid I decide to vary my stuffing recipe (cornbread with sausage) or make the brussel sprouts a different way. Mutiny!!

Of course, our recent Thanksgivings have been incredibly enriched by the participation of the Pignataros. Now, we all look forward to the end of the meal and an array of gorgeous desserts lovingly baked by Alphonse. This year, we're starting a new tradition that I'm certain no one will object to. Alphonse is making pumpkin ravioli as a starter. I can't wait!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Abortion. . .Again

Maybe it's because I have finally gotten up from under the almost 900 pages of Arturo Bolano's 2666 that I can finally pay some attention to the health care debate. . .just in time to see a bunch of gutless Democrats (all men, of course) bow down to the right and vote for the Stupak/Pitts amendment. It just goes to show that you don't have to be a Republican to hate women.

Click here to read a really good essay on why that amendment sucks. Yet another reason to support the work of Women's Medical Fund.

Current Events

Via Kevin Drum:

So why is Sarah Palin so endlessly fascinating? The sex appeal that practically oozes out of every pore? Her perpetual family soap opera? A sense of besiegement and resentment so powerful it practically knocks you over every time she speaks? The fact that she actually seems to take pride in her complete lack of policy expertise? Her seemingly total lack of real self-awareness? The fact that she lies so casually it seems like she actually believes everything she makes up?

As a woman and a feminist, how am I supposed to feel about Sarah Palin--embarrassed, ashamed, outraged, confused. Is this what we worked and marched for--the spectacle of a woman politician being as equally ridiculous, as blithefully stupid, as blatantly mendacious and as stunningly mediocre as so many of her male counterparts and being celebrated and rewarded for just those qualities?

Sunday, November 15, 2009

The End of An Era

Last week, I was suddenly overtaken by the need to cleanse. No I didn't start a juice diet or scrub my face with some sweet smelling unguent.

Instead I opened all of my closets and ruthlessly purged them of the clothes I never wear any more. I made an attempt to do this a few months ago but couldn't help but held on to a number of thing I just wasn't ready to part with despite the fact that chances of their ever be worn again were slim to none. (These days all I wear, it seems, are jeans or leggings or clothes to sweat in. ) But this time I grit my teeth and valiantly banished any sentimental feelings. Into the box slated for Linda's Stuff went a half a dozen very 80's pantsuits, the remnants of my working woman's wardrobe. I said a fond goodbye to the black silk Lagerfeld strapless number I wore to my 40th birthday party. (Hey, it still fits but strapless and me are not happening in this lifetime.) I packed away two vintage Ozbek silk jackets complete with power shoulders that I bought when Nan Duskin's left Walnut Street. (I think I wore each of them once.) Okay, there are probably a few items left in my closet that will never again see the light of day but. . .maybe next time.

Monday, November 9, 2009

My Reading LIst

Truly there are not enough hours in the day, maybe days in the year, for me to read or reread all the books I want to. The pile of books next to the futon in my study (my number one spot to read) keeps growing as does the list of books to order I keep on my blackberry. Right now I am working my way through the 800+ pages of 2666, Roberto Bolano's posthumously published magnum opus. It's weird, exhilarating, but at times really difficult to read, sort of like watching a fantastic movie on the edge of your seat but one where you have to close your eyes at the gory or scary parts.

So why was it last night while I was delightfully zoned out in corpse pose at the end of my weekly restorative yoga class, that it suddenly came to me with great urgency that I absolutely, positively had to reread Wuthering Heights by Emily Bronte. (If only I could find my copy from freshman English class with all my underlinings and marginal notes. It would be like rediscovering lost love letters.) Probably because I had similar sensations when reading Wuthering Heights--totally caught up in the intense and hermetic world of the book and almost painfully hypersensitive to the passions of its characters.

Friday, November 6, 2009

Way to Start the Weekend

It may seem frivolous to highlight this but reading the news this morning was so completely depressing that I needed an antidote. I feel a little bit like I am laughing while the world burns around me.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

What a Weekend!

From the sublime--grooving to Stevie Wonder for two and a half hours (!) on Friday night at the Borgata:



To the ridiculous--sitting outside in the rain for three and a half hours (!) watching the Phillies lose game 3 of the World Series on Saturday night:

Friday, October 30, 2009

How To Watch a Baseball Game

Well, history was made last night. I don't mean the Phillies playing back to back in the World Series. I mean I watched the whole game--3 and 1/2 hours!--at home alone. When I say I watched the whole game I don't mean I sat in front of the TV for all that time. But the TV was definitely on and there were periods when I sat on the sofa and watched a bunch of guys do a lot of vigorous spitting and chewing. Yuck! I would hate to be the one mopping up the floors in those dugouts.

In between my sit down sessions, I kept busy--doing laundry, filing my nails, checking email or playing scrabble on the computer and even giving myself a facial. But after completing every task, I circled back to the room with the TV to spend some time rooting for the home team. My father and brother, both die hard baseball fans, would have been proud.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

2666

Surprise! I love to read. For me there is truly no greater pleasure than to snuggle up on the futon in my book lined study or stretch out on the sunny window seat in the kitchen with a good book, a meaty book, open on my lap.

So it was with great pleasure today that I started Roberto Bolano’s posthumously published chef d’oevre, 2666. After the very real horrors of The Dark Side, the emotional rawness of A Happy Marriage and the inspirational yet harrowing message of Strength in What Remains, what pleasure to pick up a big (800+ page) novel and plunge in, knowing that I can look forward to a solid week of pleasure, living within the incredibly fecund, weird and wonderful mind of Bolano, an author I just discovered this year.

And I’ll have plenty of free time this week to read at night since Steve has suddenly morphed into a crazy Philly fan with a serious case of World Series madness. I won't have to feel guilty about disappearing upstairs to my study since he'll be either at the stadium cheering on the Phillies or in front of the television watching yet another game.

Friday, October 23, 2009

How Did We Get So Lucky?

Want to brighten up your day: click here.

Monday, October 19, 2009

The Dark Side

I've just climbed out of the dark hole I've been living in for the last 10 days. No, I'm not seriously depressed, just incredibly angry, horrified and nauseated. Thank god, I have finally finished reading Jane Mayer's "The Dark Side," 300 some pages that details how the Bush/Cheney administration committed heinous crimes against humanity in the name of national security. Although I had read portions of the book in The New Yorker, the cumulative effect of reading it in book form is horrific. Usually, I knock a 300 page book in two or three days but I couldn't bear to read this for more than a half hour at a time, especially at night, when I like to get a good hour or two of reading in before bedtime. Each chapter outlines in gross detail how our government authorized torture and abuse often against innocent people, committed murder and other evil acts and did so with complete impunity.

I'd like to believe that things are different now with Obama. But the CIA still exists. There are still horrible secrets and filthy goings-on hidden from public exposure. It is all too easy for ideals to be corrupted by power, no matter how beneficently it is wielded. Who knows what form evil will take in this administration? Does that seem melodramatic? I don't think so.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Bionic Woman?

What happens to a 62 year old body when you lift weights, do an intensive vinyasa yoga class and take a one hour private tennis lesson from a pro who's trying to kill you all within 36 hours of each other? You wind up in extreme pain face down on a table getting needles stuck all over your butt.

I think I've learned my lesson now. Only one form of exercise within a 24 hour period or suffer the consequences. Could I do this when I was younger? I really don't know. The irony is I didn't become such an athlete until late in life. I spent high school gym class shooting the shit with the girls. No field hockey for me. I didn't discover regular exercise until after Liz was born. Of course, then I embraced it with a vengeance, fueled by vanity but also a belief that exercise was a necessary component of a long and healthy life, sort of like taking vitamins. I still believe that but maybe I need to exercise with some moderation. Ooh, does that mean I'm getting old? An unpleasant thought.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Blackberry Madness

Isn't technology supposed to make us more efficient? Then why have I spent the entire afternoon setting up my new blackberry. Fortunately, when calling ATT tech support I got an angel aka Anna Boyle from Tulsa, Oklahoma, on the line with the patience of a saint and very midwestern "can do" attitude. What a difference from the sales person at the ATT store who was clearly disappointed that I was not buying anything new and was not ready, willing and for all I know not able to provide any help to a hapless user.

So now it's time to kick back with a glass of wine and a good book. Oh, I forgot I'm reading "The Dark Side" by Jane Mayer, a truly horrifying account of how Dick Cheney took over the government in the wake of 9/11.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Update

Whoa! I am having an amazing week. First off on Friday night--the Women's Medical Fund annual One Night Only event which this year attracted over 325 guests and raised nearly $60,000!! I am totally in shock from the response this year. My only regret that I did not win the tutored tasting from Moore Brothers. I was so looking forward to another evening of drinking good wine with good friends. Oh well, I'll just have to buy more raffle tickets next year.

Saturday night--nothing special except if you count making an amazing dinner just for me and my husband. Pasta with zucchini and shitake mushrooms and my new favorite salad of kale with grated ricotta salata and a dressing of oil, lemon and shallot. Very delicious. We dine by candlelight--very romantic.

Sunday we go to pick up the kids after their marathon bike ride fur for MS--75 miles from the city to the shore. I am in awe of their accomplishment--and their outfits--especially since, I must confess, I never learned how to ride a bike. Many memories of my dad pushing me down the alley behind our house but with always the same result--crash! Sad to say, I think it's too late for me to get up on to two wheels.

Monday morning I begin my Italian intensive class--one week for three and a half hours of Italian language. Somehow I find myself way over my head in the advanced class struggling to understand whatever the teacher is saying since he speaks molte veloce. Truly a humiliating and humbling experience. Lots of no lo so, no lo so (translation: I don't know it, I don't know it.) Hate to give in but tomorrow I may opt for the intermediate class and, hopefully, a slower pace.

Tomorrow, Steve leaves for 10 days in Italy without me. For some reason I still haven't been able to discern, I don't feel like getting on a plane and meeting him in Italy. It's a weird feeling--not wanting to travel, especially to Italy, but I'm going with it or rather I'm not going with him.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

The New Season

One day you're wearing flipflops and the next day, you're rummaging through your closet for a fleece. I guess it's fall. Even tonight's dinner--pasta with chickpeas and a salad of raw kale, ricotta salata and a lemon shallot dressing--says the summer is over. Gazpacho, my summer fave, no longer is the right taste. How many days before we give up on fresh tomatoes altogether?

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Family Dinner

I had dinner really early tonight. Not six o'clock but five o'clock. Well, I was sooooo hungry having had nothing to eat but a smoothie at 11 am after my workout.

Eating that early reminded me of when I was a kid. My dad, an old time family physician i.e. the kind who made house calls, had office hours every night at 6:30 which meant we had to eat dinner by 5:30 so he could be ready to go downstairs and see his patients, all of which were our friends and neighbors. At the time, I didn't think it weird at all. We got to eat while it was still light out and in the warm weather there was plenty of time before bed to go out in the alley and play. Best of all, I was excused early from Hebrew School which I had to attend two afternoons a week. My dad would make a special trip to bring me home before class was over and it was truly a sweet pleasure to say goodbye and know that I didn't have to sit there for another half hour.

At home, dinner was always three courses. An appetizer of grapefruit, carefully sectioned, or a slice of melon; a simple but tasty roast with vegetables (none of which I ate at that time) then dessert--jello or pudding or Tastykakes direct from the freezer. My mother's culinary creativity didn't really emerge until she fell under the spell of Julia Child, like so many women her age, soon after her first trip to Europe. By that time I was off at college and learning my own way around the kitchen, thanks to the Joy of Cooking, the bible for me and my roommates. I think our favorite meal at that time was beef stroganoff which involved a can of Campbell's cream of mushroom soup, I remember.

Like my mom, I moved on and graduated from Erma Rombauer. The bookshelves in my current kitchen hold a host of cookbooks, reflecting my culinary progress. There's my very own copy of Julia Child's masterworks, splattered with gravy and splotches of oil, my Silver Palate phase, my Asian period, my Italian obsession and now my vegetarian/natural foods regime. (Guess who led me there?) The one topic you won't find covered in my cookbook collection is dessert. I don't do cakes or pies or sweet things. My mother's recipe for tannies, what our family called butterscotch brownies or blondies, can never be recreated by me. . . except in memory.

Dreamland

I love to dream. Good thing, too, because I dream a lot. Epic dreams shot in technicolor with lots of characters in complicated plots and lots of action. Sometimes I wake up exhausted from my night's dreaming--so much energy and creativity expended to bring me my nightly feature entertainment. I'm writer, actor, director, set designer, costume designer, producer all rolled into one.

I love, too, how dreams are such a compilation of seemingly random details retrieved from deep within my mental storage cabinets. The raw material I have at my disposal each night is endless and the freedom to use it is boundless. Such power I can exercise--bring people that I have loved back to life, kill others off with impunity.

All that doesn't necessarily make for restful sleep every night but I would hate to give up my capacity to dream.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Let Me Entertain You


Last night, I had the pleasure of hosting a dinner for some 25 fabulous women. It was really easy thanks to the delicious food provided by Sweet Pea Nourishment aka Liz Solms. The women were all members of the Host Committee for One Night Only, a great party on Friday, October 2 that benefits Women's Medical Fund, the only organization in the Delaware Valley area that provides direct financial assistance for low income women and teens who need a safe and legal abortion.

Without the right and the means to control one's reproductive history, women are truly slaves. That may seem like a draconian statement but to me it is a fundamental and deeply felt belief. Maybe it's because my reproductive history encompasses almost the full range of possible experiences: I've had an abortion; I have a biological child; I've had a miscarriage; I've had fertility treatments; I have an adopted child. But at every moment, I was free to make a choice unconstrained by financial considerations or government restrictions.

The women and teens who come to Women's Medical Fund don't have that freedom to choose because they don't have the money to pay for a safe and legal abortion. It's as simple as that.

Monday, September 14, 2009

September Delusions

It's days like today and yesterday that make me think, just for a minute, mind you, that summer in the city might not be half bad. Then I remember trudging down Broad Street during the dog days of August and being assaulted by the hot smell of urine and sweat and god knows what else rising up from a subway entrance. No way I'm giving up Maine.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Last Day

Our last day in Maine and, yes, it's another classic blue sky/fresh air/acres of diamonds kind of day. I took one more long run down the road and got a picture perfect view of the whole presidential range at the turn on the way back. No snow yet on the top of Mt. Washington. I'll hold that view in my head when I'm back in the city and jogging down Spruce Street.

I stayed up late last night in front of the fire finishing my book--another serious tome about Nazi Germany. I didn't want to schlep it and its depressing subject matter home. I didn't dream about Hitler, thank goodness. Instead I had a beautiful dream about my brother. Steve and I were traveling together on a bus and when we got to where we were going I suddenly found Max, looking young and healthy and wearing a beautiful blue shirt, the color of the sky. We hugged and kissed and I kept exclaiming, "He's here! He's not lost." The dream woke me up but I closed my eyes immediately and willed myself to go back to sleep where I could see him again.

Friday, September 4, 2009

This was THE Perfect Day

It started out with a one-to-one yoga session with Kerry on the dock. The lake was perfectly still and just six feet off the dock I could watch three large loons swim and dive while I moved from warrior to downward dog to child's pose. Blissful.

The rest of the day I spent on the deck reading, only moving my chair to follow the sun. A short break for a lunch of homemade gazpacho, my summer favorite. The sun danced on the lake; an occasional motorboat disturbed the calm; once in a while a soft wind moved across the surface setting the diamonds dancing.



Heavenly.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Coming to the End

The nature gods are granting us perfect end of season Maine weather, perhaps a reward for all the suffering we endured--the endless rain, the cold--for most of June and July. Days are crystal clear and crisply dry, ideal for a long run or just sitting on the deck. The nights are cool, perfect for a roaring fire, late night stargazing and lots of cuddling. The moon is almost full now and so bright and golden. When I wake up in the middle of the night, moonlight is streaming into our bedroom from across the lake and I can't go back to sleep until I watch the moon sink behind the trees and settle into the lake.

This morning, Marlene and I walked around the lake, some 11 miles. It took us about 3 hours. When we started, there was truly not a cloud in the sky. But when we walked up Mayberry Hill and turned into Powhatan Road for the final stretch, a few white clouds straggled harmlessly across the sky.
I guess we're lucky this year that Labor Day is so late but it already feels like fall to me perhaps because we never got too much of a summer--just one short hot spell right before the wedding. Let the record show that I did jump in the water more than once that week--Liz is my witness--and actually swam around. With temperatures dropping to the low 40's at night, it's way too cold for me now. Next year.

Monday, August 31, 2009

You Have Been Warned

Steve and I promise to be the most boring and annoying company when we finally come back from Maine next week. All we want to talk about, think about and kvell about is THE WEDDING. How many times have Steve and I rehashed those magic moments when we walked--no, flew--down the aisle with Elizabeth, so proud and happy and joyful to be her parents and to see her married.

You can see a preview of the photos from that never to be forgotten evening (at least by us), by clicking here. Needless, to say, we have scrolled through them countless times already. Thank you, Melissa, for being such a considerate, sensitive and talented recorder of this event.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Ellen's Addiction

Help! I am in the throes of a serious carbohydrate binge. I suppose it's part of my post party/wedding syndrome but it's been enabled, facilitated and aggravated by a gift of a giant tin of Hammond Pretzels, the greatest pretzels bar none in the universe. They are virtually irresistible--at least to me. Despite my best efforts at consumption and Steve's serious partaking--the pockets of all his clothes are now gritty with pretzel crumbs--there are still some left.

Here's is my dilemma: Do I keep shoveling them into my mouth until they are thankfully all gone or do I somehow find the will power to resist. In desperation, I've moved the tin out of the kitchen into the back room but somehow that hasn't worked. Today, when alone in the house having self-righteously declined an invitation to go the Tolls for a brunch of fresh corn fritters and maple syrup, I tiptoed into the back room and dipped into the tin for a rather large handful of pretzel pieces. As anyone with half a brain knows, pretzel pieces are much, much less fattening that whole pretzels.

Monday, August 24, 2009

It's Official

The big question is: How can I return to normal life now that I am no longer Mother-of-the-Bride but Mother-in-Law?

It helps that I am still in Maine where it is a beautiful day with acres of diamonds on the lake. Everyone has left and I am busy doing laundry. But dancing in my head are wonderful visions of that magical night--the loving couple under the chuppa, happiness and love flowing all round them, joy so intense it was almost tangible.

At times like this, how sweet it is to be a parent.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Today is THE DAY!

Love is all around me. I am so happy for Liz and Giuliano and their new life together.

Friday, August 14, 2009

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

10 Days Away!

What does it mean to be Mother-of-the-Bride? Well, for one, you run around like a chicken without a head finding ways to spend awesome amounts of money and time on suddenly essential items.

For example, yesterday I sprinted into Sephora like a crazy woman and filled a bag with two new water resistant (very important) mascaras (gotta have a back up), a new lipstick to go with the 5o others I have stashed in my drawer, a new eyelash curler (what if the old one breaks?), 10 sponge applicators (you never know), etc. etc. All this to be used with the brand new lighted make up mirror already purchased and waiting in Maine.

Then there's the special professional steamer I bought and am schlepping up to Maine (and which I will have to schlep back) so that all our clothes will be creaseless and gorgeous on the big day. And, of course, there's my dress and the requisite underwear and two pair of new shoes--flats for the ceremony and heels for the party. Oh, yes and I just had to run out and buy a cute new top for the Friday barbeque despite the fact that I have a zillion tops both here and in Maine.

These last few days have been so much fun!

Monday, August 10, 2009

Less Than Two Weeks Away!

Is it possible that I can get some sleep in the next 11 days? Each night it seems the very second my head hits the pillow, my brain wakes up and I am spinning in overdrive with questions, thoughts, fantasies all about THE WEDDING. Is this all part of normal Mother-of-the-Bridedom?

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Everything is Bright and Beautiful

I am in a state of barely controllable excitement.

Maybe. . .it's because there is not a cloud in the sky. Maybe. . .it's because the dock is no longer under water. Maybe. . . it's because our new landscaping is flourishing and the house is freshly painted. But maybe, just maybe. . . it's because I am sooooo happy that Liz and Giul are getting married and that the wedding will be here in Maine.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

21 Days and Counting

It's official: We are three weeks away from the B.E. aka the Big Event, the Blessed Event, THE WEDDING. I give myself full permission not to think about anything else.

It's a gorgeous day and I am taking that as a good omen. Every Saturday this month will be as lovely.

I had a wonderful dream last night about the wedding. The best part was that I saw my mother, looking impossibly young, dressed in a blue velvet strapless gown, her hair rich and dark and wavy and swept away from her face. She was simply stunning and I was so happy she was there.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

My Afternoon

And so, dear Reader, I spent 3 glorious hours this afternoon ensconced in a chair on the deck totally engaged in reading Middlemarch, probably my favorite novel of all time.

This is my third or fourth reading and I finally had to buy a new book because my original copy, dating from my college years, is coming apart. I kind of miss my old book with its underlined passages and scribbled notes in the margin but new or old, I am still hopelessly in love with Dorothea Brooke, the novel's heroine, and totally in awe of George Eliot's wisdom, her insight into human nature and her ability to write such a complex story so effortlessly. This is what novel writing is all about to me--creating a whole world, meeting a whole host of different people, working on a big scale not just replaying the seemingly endless anxieties of some narcissitic hero, usually male of course.


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A Nearly Perfect Start of the Day

This is the way to start a day especially a beautiful sunny one--at last, at last!--overlooking a crystal clear lake, surrounded by pine trees.

First item on the agenda--have a fresh fruit smoothie, my newest passion. Thanks to the gift of a fabulous and powerful blender, I am whipping up delicious tasting and deliciously colored concoctions on a daily basis. This morning's treat was made of strawberries, peaches, orange and banana but others have featured blueberries or kiwis or cantelope or raspberries, whatever is on hand.

Second activity--a one on one yoga session. (Yes, I am following in my daughter's footsteps but isn't it wonderful when your grown children can introduce you to something new.) This session takes place on the dock with the sun beating down on us and a steady breeze cooling us down. How beautiful it is to do yoga looking out over the lake! In fact, it almost seems at times as if I am floating on the lake since the water level is so high from all the rain we've had. Ah, namaste.

Now, it's just 2 o'clock in the afternoon. The rest of the day stretches ahead of me, all blue and gold and green. Shall I go for a run, find a tennis game or just settle down on the deck and begin to read Middlemarch?

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

A New Leaf

I am going on a "new regime." (BTW, this was a favorite phrase of my mother's usually accompanied by a pointed finger for emphasis, and most likely aimed at my dad or my brother and me.)

For the rest of the summer, I vow to read only fiction--no more weighty tomes about world wars and world problems and corrupt p0liticians. The Big Event is just one month away and I only want positive vibes flowing my way. (God knows the weather isn't helping. We are back in the tunnel of grey and wet.) That is not to say that Danielle Steele is now on my reading list. I do have standards and a tradition to uphold. I am the proud daughter of a mother who kept a copy of "Pride and Prejudice" in her bathroom for when the occasion demanded a good long read.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Book Report

I've been reading the most boring books lately. Right now, I 'm slogging my way through a history of the Italian campaigns against Austria during World War I. I love all things about Italy--the food, the style, the language--but this book is literally Too Much Information and will in no way contribute to my appreciation of Marcella's sublime eggplant parmigiana. The only thing that reading this book confirms is that Italian politics are totally fucked up and have been so way before Berlusconi!

What I need is a return to a big fat classic with lots of interesting characters and a story that you never want to end. I'm contemplating a Dickens novel or maybe middle period Henry James or, here's a thought, going for the gold and rereading Middlemarch for the third time.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

At Last


Three straight days of sunshine. I even got to hang my laundry!

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

WTF?!

It's freezing outside, the wind is howling and just in case we misssed anything it's pouring too. But I am snug as a bug in a rug in front of a roaring fire. (Did you know that I am famous for my one match infernos?) What could be better than toasting my feet on the hearth, a glass of wine in hand, a fat book on my lap, some mellow tunes in the background. Except that's it's fucking July 7th, summertime, goddammit.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

At Last

I feel like a snake that that has crawled out of its hole after a long winter of hibernation. I am sitting on the deck all alone reveling in the feel of the sun on my face. At last, we are experiencing a quintessential Maine day--brilliant sun, white clouds scudding across the sky. I don't want to move from this spot.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

The Real Reality

Let's call a spade, a spade. This weather sucks. It's grey, it's wet, we will never see the sun, the moon or the stars. We are being punished for our sins, for not electing Al Gore, for allowing George Bush to be president. We are all suffering from SAD, seasonal affective disease. We will never see a fresh tomato.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Would You Believe I've Been Married to This Man for 40 Years!

Let’s face it: It never should have lasted. We decided to get married after a week; we got officially engaged after a month; and we were married just six weeks later.
Who knows what we were thinking.

After 40 years, I still can't figure it out. Maybe that's the secret.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Quote of the Day

From Gail Collins' op ed piece in today's NYT:

". . .perhaps it is time to rethink the idea of constantly electing middle-aged heterosexual men to positions of high importance."

Read the whole column here.

Good News...at least for now


The sun is out. And so is he!

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Maine

I am trying not to panic but the vibe I am getting here in Maine is not a good one. Dark skies, stormy clouds, a constant drizzle--could this be a repeat of the summer of '08 when the sun didn't come out for good until mid August.

The dock is almost under water; our basement is a pond; the mosquitoes are fearsome and ants have taken over the kitchen. Oh well...we've managed a few games of PT i.e. pathetic tennis and I've been able to do a few long runs between monsoons.

I guess we left summer in Tuscany.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Stupid Questions

Got a mani-pedi yesterday. Not an unusual or noteworthy occurrence but it did get me wondering. Why are there so many cheap nail salons now? It seems there's at least one on every block or two in center city--all staffed by diminutive and impossibly young looking Asisan women who spend long hours hunched over strange hands and feet and doing god only knows what damage to their lungs from inhaling toxic fumes all day.

I bet if I went to a different salon every summer I still couldn't visit every location in center city from river to river. They are more ubiquitous than the rash of drug stores that have opened in recent years.

Who owns all these places? Is there some slightly sinister Mr. or Mrs. Big of the nail salon world who controls it all and is reaping huge profits by exploiting our vanity and paying these girls peanuts. Where is our money going exactly?

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Trust Women

I can't stop thinking about the horrible murder of Dr. Tiller, the doctor in Wichita, Kansas, whose clinic provided services to women who needed a late term abortion. I went to a vigil/demonstration in center city right after he died. There were lots of women my age there and also lots of young women. I felt good about that. By and large, the older women were sad and weary. How many marches and demonstrations have we've gone on and how many more do we have to attend to make a difference.

In contrast, the younger women were angry and not afraid to show it. At first when I saw their slogan, "Abortion on demand and without apology!" I thought, uh oh wrong message for the public and the TV cameras. Better to be calm, be rational, talk about access, talk about choice, talk about women's health. But later I thought what's the point of being rational to irrational to people who are willing to kill, to murder to assassinate others who don't believe as they do.

What's even worse, their terrorist tactics have worked. Dr. Tiller is dead; his clinic permanently shuttered; doctors successfully discouraged from performing life-saving procedures; women in deadly danger and denied the necessary care.

That night I watched a TV commercial for Viagra or Cialis--basically an expensively and expertly produced presentation promising sex on demand and without apology to men. Need I say more.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Eat Your Heart Out!

To see a slideshow of our month in Tuscany, click here.

WARNING: These photos are best viewed while drinking a glass of prosecco and nibbling on pecorino cheese. Accept no substitutes!

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Home

After two days in dirty, crowded, but always so fabulous Rome, I am back in Philly doing laundry and catching up on the real world. I'm not complaining though. Philadelphia truly looks it best in the spring when everything is so green.

I'm already preparing my to-do list for next May in Tuscany: Must take more walks; must visit Siena and all the other places I never got to; must eat less...without insulting Marcella, of course; must go on a picnic; must learn better Italian; must continue to beat Steve in bocce, etc.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Hay Fever

Our last day at Casselacce and, fittingly, the weather is exceptionally beautiful--sunny but not too hot and with a lovely breeze.

I set out for my last marathon walk up the hill to be greeted immediately by the ferocious sheep dogs. This time one dog follows me so closely that I can feel his breath on the back of my legs, a rather unnerving experience but, as always, I keep on walking past them refusing to panic. The sheep now have been shorn of their woolly coats and if there was ever a creature that looked like it needed protection it is a very pink and naked sheep huddled closely to its equally pathetic brothers and sisters.

I've taken this walk so many times this month but today I am really struck by how the landscape has changed in the four weeks. The fields are no longer uniformly green but an undulating pattern of green and gold and brown. Huge wheels of hay are laying randomly in some of the fields, like giant game pieces waiting to be played in some mysterious game. There are so many different flowers in so many colors--tall purple thistles, red poppies with paper thin petals, bushes of wild roses, tiny pink and white and purple creepers, bright yellow buttercups and dandelions.

Two days ago, Jonathan and I hiked all the way to Castiglioncello del Trinoro so today I turn left towards La Foce. The climbing roses are dry and dusty on the walls of the graveyard but now there are pots of red and pink geraniums inside the walls. It's nice to know that someone is taking care of this place.

On the way back I pass a serious group of walkers, all dressed in walking shorts, hiking shoes, floppy hats and carrying walking sticks. "The tourists are coming! The tourists are coming!" I guess it is time to leave.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Un Giorno Stradinario

Every day at Cassalocche has been special but this day was especially so.

After an early morning walk, we all (Liz and Giul, Steve and me and recent college graduate Jonathan Beck) headed out to Podere Il Casale.

The farm is located up on a hill midway between Pienza and Montecchiello with astounding views all around. We are greeted by Sandra. How to describe her: Beautiful, stylish, incredibly energetic, charismatic, an amazing combination of Germanic efficiency and Italian brio. We meet the resident donkey and peacocks; tour the cheese making facility, learn about her five (!) sons ranging in age from 9 to 21. Lunch is outside and all the food and wine is prepared by her from their farm--incredible cheeses--pecorino, chevre and gorgonzola--home cured meats, spelt bread, grilled eggplant, roasted peppers, pasta with an aspargus pesto, farro salad, cabbage saute, red wine, and to top it off chocolate cake made with chestnut flour and olive oil. We are all awed by the setting and the life style.

Back to Casellaccia and bocce and scrabble by the pool. Kenny arrives and we celebrate another sunset with pink prosecco and individual pizzas.

Monday, May 25, 2009

La Dolce Vita

Tuscany is turning me into a blonde...a chubby blonde. It's hot and dry and most mornings we spend in a semi comatose state out by the pool recovering from last night's dinner alla Marcella.

Yesterday I woke early and took a long walk up the hill and then across the ridge to La Foce, passing fields of fava beans and wheat and olive trees. It was Sunday and there was no one on the road. Even the sheep dogs were sleeping, thank goodness. Usually they bark and bark as I approach and sometimes come out of the fence and follow me, gnarling fiercely all the way, until I am deemed sufficiently distant from their precious sheep.

It's amazing how different the landscape looks every day. When we came, the wheat was barely inches tall and now it's three feet high and swaying in the wind like waves in the ocean. Each day another field is plowed making a patchwork of green and gold stripes. The bushes of bright yellow broom with its passionate and powerful aroma are almost gone but red poppies and wild roses are everywhere along the road along with tiny pick and purple flowers. It's been almost four weeks but I am still completely enraptured by my surroundings.

Most of our excursions take place at the end of the day when the sun is cooled off and the light is golden. One day we drove to Pienza and another to Radicofane, coming back to Casselocche just in time for sunset and prosecco.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Sono Molta Contenta Qui

It's sunny and hot now as it has been for the last few days. I've fallen into a wonderful routine--marathons walks either in the early morning or late afternoon, a leisurely lunch outside, games of bocce on the lawn, sunset viewing with a glass of prosecco f0llowed by another fabulous dinner, stargazing and then off to bed. It's even better now that Liz and Giul are here to share it all.

Like everyone who's been to Casselocche this month, they were immediately enraptured by the house and the landscape. And what a special pleasure it is to be here together with Alfonse and Anita as well.

It's almost unsettling when I think about the amazing year I've had so far--hiking the Andes to Machu Picchu, a month in Tuscany--but it all is a lead up to this summer's main event--the wedding of Elizabetha and Giuliano alla casa nostra sul lago.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

The Next Shift

The Kaufmans have left only to be replaced by the Pignataros. Since Alfonse is himself un cuoco magnifico, I have taken special care to plan the menus for his stay here. His first dinner does not disappoint. First course: my all time favorite--a salad of fresh fava beans, pecorino cheese and proscuitto; pasta--ravioli alla Marcella which means ravioli with a pear and ricotta cheese stuffing topped with grated parmesean and pear (!); main course--a flavorful saute of squid and potatoes with peperocino accompanied by an arugala salad; dessert--an amazing chocolate confection with strawberries and ice cream. He is suitably impressed.

Today, we all drove to Radicofane, a tiny renaissance town way up on a hill. Feeling virtuous and most certainly in desperate need of exercise we climbed all the way up the hill through the town and the woods to the ruins of the castle at the very top. The air was so clean and fresh and the views stupendous. We got back to Cassalocche in time for a lunch of leftovers. We're not talking stale bread or day old tuna salad either.

Now it's siesta time except for Steve who is happily getting a massage by Silvio. I am still debating whether to take a walk or just settle comfortably into a chair and read. Maybe I can do both.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

A Lazy Day

There must have been something in last night's dinner because this morning the six of us woke up in a totally soporific state. Speaking for myself, I could barely summon up the strength to put on suncreen and lay by the pool. Somehow I managed.

I think it was the dessert--fat, juicy fresh pears poached in a rich red wine sauce which we accompanied with glases of Marcella's own vin santo. We got up from the table and lurched into the living room for an evening of Scrabble and Sorry.

Tomorrow Asha and Josh leave in the early morning so I have resolved to take a long walk once I say goodbye to the happy couple to make up for today's delicious laziness.

Friday, May 15, 2009

An Excursion

The Kaufman clan is here--Elliott, Jeelu, Asha and Josh--and have oh-so-quickly acclimatized themselves to the rhythm of life here at Cassalocce. That means sleeping late, playing bocce or just chilling by the pool or hot tub, taking long walks at the end of the day in preparation for yet another fantastic dinner alla Marcella then toddling up to bed thoroughly satiated and perhaps just a little inebriated after a fierce game of Sorry or Scrabble. Truly, the simple life.

Today, to break the "monotony," we all piled into the car and headed out for an excursion. I should clarify. Not all of us. Steve remained behind determined not to miss the leftover pollo alla grigliata from last night's dinner for his lunch. But the five of us were game for an afternoon of exploration supported by our trusty GPS system which spouts directions in Italian, of course.

We headed for Montapulciano, a charming (aren't they all!) Renaissance town high up on a hill overlooking vineyards and rolling fields of olive trees and wheat. Somehow, I can't imagine ever tiring of this landscape. Once there we ambled slowly up and down the narrow streets, fortunately nearly empty of tourists this time of year and walked through the main piazza with its rather grim church. I love how clean these little towns are--no graffiti, not a speck of litter on the streets--all the window boxes sporting bright red and pink and purple geraniums, wonderful wooden doors with polished antique knockers, terracotta tiled roofs and old bricks the color of the sun.

It was 2 o'clock and time for a meal so we scoped out the possibilities and decided on a tiny cafe with just the right vibe. (As my daughter Elizabeth has taught me, it is all about the vibe.) What a treat! The waiter was a very earnest and adorable young man who carefully explained the menu to us and each ingredient's local provenance, had us taste a number of local organic wines before having us choose a bottle for lunch, and then brought numerous bottles of olive oil and specified exactly what they should be poured on. Out of the kitchen came a slender young woman, his wife and the chef. Although we ate relatively lightly--assorted bruschetta and then a seleczioni of local cheeses and meats--all was delicious and prepared with real care. Definitely worth a repeat visit, we all decided.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Cheese, Cheese, Cheese

Can a person eat too much cheese? Right now I feel that if you pricked me, there would be no blood just an ooze of creamy white pecorino. Last night as Marcella continues to kill us with kindness, we had pici, the local Tuscan pasta, alla cacio e pepe. (N.B. Earlier that morning I watched Marcella make pici and even partook in the process. Despite my participation, I am not at all confident that I can replicate the product on my own.) That means pasta in a delicous and unctuous sauce of percorino, parmegiano and fresh ground pepper. This was followed by several vegetarian dishes, two of which featured cheese, of course. The coup de gras was a wonderful gooey chocolate dessert with ice cream and strawberries. God only know what my cholestrol levels are now!

So today we drove into Montalcino, yet another beautiful walled Renaissance city about a half hour drive from the villa here for a stroll. And what did I have for lunch but pecorino cheese melted on bread and topped with local honey. (A definite improvement over Little Pete's grilled cheese.) On our return to the house, I immediately took off for a marathon 3 hour walk up the hills to Campiglioncello del Trinoro in a vain attempt to walk off some of the cheese and calories. I left Steve, perfectly content but looking suspiciously like a beached whale, on the lawn. I got back just in time for sunset which meant prosecco and, yes, a few slices of pecorino con pepperoncino, just one of the local cheeses which Steve and I had purchased yesterday at the fattoria of Giusippe conveniently located just five minutes down the road.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Another Perfect Day

Woke up to another sunny, warm day and a delicious glass of fresh orange and red grapefruit juice. I may never have another diet coke! After a quick game of bocce on the lawn, we headed off to Pienza, for the Festa di Fiori. Pienza, a perfect renaissance town up on a hill and only a 15 minute drive from the villa, would be beautiful and charming anytime given its setting and classic architecture but it was even more so today when the narrow streets were lined with booths selling flowers and plants. Great people watching too. Lots of well addressed Italians out for the day.

But what I love most about Pienza is the smell. Even with the flowers, the predominant aroma throughout the town was still that of pecorino cheese, emanating from the many small stores featuring rounds of the local cheese in various stages of aging.

When we got back to the house, we feasted yet again on Marcella's leftovers--the fava bean and pecorino salad which I could happily eat every day--fat spears of white asparagus baked with parmesean, accompanied, of course, by a glass of white wine. As now is my custom, I took a long walk in the late afternoon. The light is especially beautiful then, a golden green that turns the hills into velvet. What always impresses me on my walks is the profound silence. I hear a cuckoo bird once in a while although I've never seen one. I scare a pheasant out of the bushes. I hear bullfrogs in the watering holes. Once in a while a car passes throwing up a cloud of white dust. I never see anyone else walking. Only the sheep dogs seem aware of my presence, barking ferociously when I walk past their charges.

I got back in time for prosecco and sunset.

Friday, May 8, 2009

On the Road

We've been here at Cassellocce for almost a week but already I have my routines, of which one is to take a long, long walk up the dirt road behind the house. I already have my landmarks--1/2 hour to the start of the climb up the first mountain--and different routes I've yet to explore. For the two hours I'm out on the road, I see hardly anyone and very few cars. It's just me and the sheep. . . and the barking sheep dogs that protect them so fiercely.

Yesterday I took a new turn that took me along a pleasantly widing and shady road. After about an hour, I stopped at a tiny graveyard with a sweet little chapel at the end. The iron gate was locked so I couldn't get in but I could see the gravestones, lined up tightly in neat rows and all of them mounted with small formal photographs in oval frames of the deceased. The effect was of an audience patiently waiting for the show to begin.

On my way home I was joined by a dog who followed me all the way back to the house. And, in fact, when we woke up this morning I found the dog in the kitchen--much to Steve's dismay--where he had eaten all the remaining biscotti and plum torte. Fortunately, the dog is now gone thanks to the gardener who called the "Guarda" and, best of all, Giovanna has baked us a strawberry torta for dinner.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

On Our Own

The house party that raged for five straight days and nights is now over. Bob and Jane and Rachel and Noah and Isaac and Leo and Jacob have packed up their suitcases and multiple bags of baby gear, cheese, salami, etc. etc. etc. and have flown away leaving Steve and I all by ourselves in paradise. The silence after all the hoopla is truly overwhelming. Now we are faced with the wonderful reality of having this fabulous house, these incredible vistas all to ourselves for a week--just enough time to recuperate and get ready for the next wave of festivities when Jeelu and Elliott, Josh and Asha arrive.

We've given Marcella the rest of the day off and have decided to eat out of the refrigerator for our lunch and dinner. And what a refrigerator awaits us! An incredible selection of cheese and meats, various pasta sauces, leftover ribollita, grilled vegetables. . . you get the picture. . .not to mention the delicous biscotti, cookies and a beautiful torte filled with pureed prunes that Giovanna, Marcella's assistant, baked for us over the last few days.

Last night's dinner, the final debauch of the Toll visit (It's shocking the number of bottles of wine consumed while they were here!) was incredible as always. The highlight was Marcella's very special ravioli stuffed with percorino and pear and parmesean. All of us were blown away by the combination of flavors. And, to think, I will get to eat this again...

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

The Perfect Birthday

Today (May 5 for future reference) was my birthday. I won't reveal the year. This is how I spent it.

Took a walk up the path past the house with Steve. Incredible views. Lots of sheep.

Drove into Pienza with Bob and Jane. Toured city, ate lunch, bought molto pecorino cheese and salami from hot guy to bring to Maine this summer. Now it's up to Jane to grow the fava beans.

Drove to another adorable Tuscan village--Bagno Vignoli--with ancient Roman bath.

Drove back to Casselloccia. Took a shower. Got ready for dinner. Bob and Steve played bocce on the lawn.

Went to dinner at La Porta in Monticchello since it was Marcella's day off. Had prosecco on roof overlooking sunset. Ate dinner--risotto with white aspargus and white truffles was a highlight--drank two bottles of Casonva da Neri wine and then finished off with an Ornellaia--sang happy birthday multiple times.

Forunately, driven back to Casseloccia. The rest is history.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Podere Casselloccia

I am living in a fantasy, on a stage set, in a movie. From every window, I see a classic Tuscan landscape of gently rolling green hills occasionally dotted with herds of fat white sheep and punctuated by rows of tall green cypress trees that mark the entryways to farms or villas. It is incredibly peaceful and beautiful.

I'm also on my way to gaining mega amounts of weight thanks to the fabulous cooking of Marcella, our housekeeper and cook. Every lunch and dinner is a three course extravaganza featuring antipasti, pasta and then a main course washed down with seemingly endless bottles of wine. Bob and Jane are here with their crew so moderation is definitely not on the agenda but I vow that next week when Steve and I are here alone that our menu choices will be more sensible but still delicious.

The house itself is huge but homey, with lots of comfortable nooks both inside and out for reading and relaxing and all with incredible vistas. Chances are Steve will never leave. But I am looking forward to exploring the many small towns and sites close by. Yesterday Bob and Jane and I took a mini excursion to Montepulciano, a medieval walled city about 20 minutes from here. Somehow we managed to negotiate our way through the very narrow streets and even found our way back home without the benefit of the GPS.

Friday, May 1, 2009

May Day

Il Primo da Maggio is a national holiday in Italy, sort of their Labor Day, and in Rome that means that all the stores and businesses are closed and everyone is on the streets enjoying a gloriously warm and sunny day.

Our routine is just the same as every other day we've been here. We wake up shockingly late and then head like homing pigeons to our old neighborhood of Trastevere where we sit in the square and drink fresh squeezed orange juice and watch the world go by. Since today was our last day in Rome, we even went into the church of Santa Maria da Trastevere to ooh and aah at the mosaics and then took a sentimental walk past our old house at Vicolo del Cedro 12.

By then, it was time for lunch so we strolled across the Ponte Sisto to the Pantheon, the most perfect building in all of Rome. After the required awestruck gaze up at the dome, we had a fabulous lunch sitting outside at La Rosetta. We were on our best behavior and only ordered a half bottle of wine to go with our oysters and fresh fish.

Our post-lunch activity was another stroll. . .this time to the Piazza del Populo and then up to the Borghese Gardens. I have never seen the Borghese as crowded as today. It seemed like every Italian family was there pushing strollers and carrying balloons. Even the grass was crowded with kids playing frisbee or lovesick teenagers making out furiously. We wandered through a festival featuring food and drink from every area of Italy and Steve staunchly resisted the temptation to sample every salami and cheese on display.

Last stop on our march was the Spanish Steps, mobbed as always with tourists but worth a quick visit to see the masses of pink azaleas arranged on the steps. We walked along the river back to our hotel on Via Guilia in time for Steve to get a massage and for me to relax before we need to stroll out once again to dinner.

Not a bad schedule but it ends tonight. Tomorrow, it's on to Tuscany.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Bienvenuto a Roma

So here we are back in Rome. Unfortunately, we are not at Vicolo del Cedro 12--it's been rented for a year--but we are comfortably ensconced at the St. George's Hotel on Via Giulia, a beautiful cobblestoned street across the river from Trastevere. After an afternoon nap or at least an attempt to nap on my part, we head out to pound the pavements and, most importantly, get our first glass of prosecco at our favorite wine bar, Ferrara, on Piazza Trilussa. Fulvia, our favorite bar maid, isn't there but it doesn't matter. We are here and feeling wonderful.

We take a sentimental walk past our old house--the shutters are open and the lights are on--and then walk around the corner for dinner at Quirino on Vicolo della Scala in Trastevere. The owner recognizes us and the pasta is perfectly cooked--al dente!

How wonderful to be back in Rome.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

On to Italy. . .

. . .but first a stop off at my 45th high school reunion last night. Unlike the 40th which was held out in King of Prussia, miles and miles from center city and Yeadon, this one was downtown at the Moshulu so I had no excuse to bag it. And, unlike the 40th which was our first reunion in 30 years so full of suprises--I swear I didn't recognize half the people there--last night's party was pretty low key and not so well attended. Maybe, it's the times, maybe it's our age, but people seemed very relaxed and genuinely glad to see each other. It's like everyone was thinking, "Whoa, we're still here, we don't look bad, life goes on."

The best part for me was the way some classmates remembered my parents. Joan Cantor remembered my mom as "the first modern woman" and thought of her as a role model. I felt flattered when she said that since I always thought my mom was very special. I don't even think my mom was back at school or working when I was in high school. Joan must have thought that because, unlike so many of my friends' mothers, my mom was slim and good looking and interested in things other than housekeeping.

Lee Malit, himself now a doctor, said he always considered my dad the ideal of what a doctor should be--totally professional, a good mix of the compassionate and the competent. He must not have been alone since so many of my friends and their families were patients of my dad.

When I was growing up in Yeadon, I often berated my parents for making what I considered the wrong choice in not settling somewhere more upscale and suburban. Cheltenham or Lower Merion, where most of my camp friends came from, seemed the ideal place to live. I couldn't wait to get of Yeadon once I graduated and boldly chose a college where I was sure my true intellectual nature would finally be appreciated. Once I was married, my parents, too, moved out and left Yeadon behind with no regrets as far as I could tell.

I keep saying that soon I'm going to take a drive out there, walk down my block, stroll past my friends' houses, my old elementary school, the high school, but I haven't been to Yeadon in 15 years. Maybe I should ride the 13 trolley again and walk all the way up Church Lane to our house, then knock on the door and ask to look around.

I don't think so. It's safer in my dreams.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Sick In Bed

I'm sick with a classic head cold of major proportions--head weighs about 50 pounds minimum; nose keeps flowing; cough sounds like a barking dog. I hate being sick now when you have to be both nurse and patient. It used to be almost fun when I was a kid and I had my mother to take care of me. Bring me orange juice and buttered toast in bed, let me drink ginger ale in the afternoon, cool me down with a sponge bath. The TV from their bedroom would get rolled into my room and I was free to watch TV all day--Queen for a Day, The Price is Right and other harmless inanities. When I had the measles and my eyes were affected, she read to me every afternoon--Mark Twain's Tom Sawyer, I remember.

I haven't been able to read the last few days which for me is quite unusual. Just can't seem to concentrate. Instead I've been surfing the TV relentlessly, watching terrible movies and even more terrible TV shows. Last night I wound up on The Learning Channel and watched two really nasty people make fun of a really sweet woman all in the name of updating her style. I switched channels when I saw the promos for the next two programs--I Didn't Know I was Pregnant! and, I kid you not, a reality show about dwarfs or little people.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Outrage

At last, some outrage over the torture memos. I know it's long but this post from Andrew Sullivan is really worth reading.

And did you know that Jay Bybee, one of the primary legal minds responsible for these memos, is now a federal judge, appointed by Bush, of course, but approved by Congress. What a chilling thought.

The End of An Era

Today I am bidding goodby to the last vestiges of my working woman/executive director wardrobe. Bundled in a bag, waiting to be picked up are a choice selection of silk blouses all featuring bows that needed to be carefully tied, fancy designer labels and, of course, the requisite shoulder pads. Nestled in the bag as well are a random selection of skirts, pants and jackets all dating from the 80's and early 90's, my era of power dressing.

Those were the days when every morning I threw on my office uniform consisting of a sharply tailored suit--short skirt, broad shouldered jacket, jewel-toned silk shirt and always black tights and heels. Those days are long gone and over the years, I've quietly de-accessioned a large proportion of my working woman wardrobe. (Although I still have bags of opaque black stockings stashed at the bottom of a closet. No chance of ever running out of that still essential item.) But for some reason, I just wasn't ready to say goodby to those particular blouses. Their utter impracticality (brilliantly colored silks that demanded to be dry cleaned) and inappropriateness to my current way of life (not suitable for wearing to the gym or hiking up a mountain) were part of their charm. And, I admit, there was a tiny voice in the back of my head that said, "Maybe, just maybe, you might just want to wear them again."

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Easter Dinner

I don't think I ever celebrated Easter dinner before. Well, how would I? I'm Jewish and baked ham has never appeared on any menu I've ever experienced. Can't say I've missed it. But tonight we were invited to the Pignataro's, Liz's future in-laws, for dinner and if this is Easter dinner let us please have more of these in the future.

Alphonse's menu: Flatbread with clams and potatoes; Ravioli stuffed with roasted eggplant and goat cheese in a fabulous tomato sauce; halibut with a blueberry sauce (memo to self: must recreate this in Maine); turnip and parsnip puree (ambrosia!), roasted root vegetables, roast pork shoulder brined in maple syrup; asparagus; poached pears and berry sauce; chocolate cake layered with whip cream and almonds. We leave the table groaning and fully sated.

How lucky are we that Liz is marrying Giuliano. Not only to we get a project manager for a son-in-law but our family dinners are enriched in every sense of the word by Alphonse's desserts and Anita's good humor.

Monday, April 6, 2009

The Carp in the Bathtub

As a postscript to Liz's latest post, I can add that most of my childhood memories of Passover are definitely linked to food. For example, the dry-as-a-bone turkey stuffed with an equally heinous, cardboard-like farfel mixture served at my Aunt Roz's seder. No comparison with the tender and flavorful brisket with winey gravy featured at my mom's house. (Despite being a committed vegetarian, I am dutifully serving the same brisket at our seder. If I didn't, I think Steve would refuse to come! BTW, his mother always served beef fillet, asparagus boiled to within a inch of its life and then sherbet for dessert. Josie did make the best ever chicken soup and the lightest matzo balls in the world but her "secret" ingredient I learned one year was baking soda, definitely not kosher for Passover.)

Then there was the time my mom and I actually made gefilte fish from scratch. No carp in the bathtub but we spent hours hand chopping the fish in a big, wide wooden bowl scarred from years of use that once belonged to her mother. We topped off the afternoon by nearly asphyxiating ourselves by grinding horseradish root in the kitchen. Choking and wheezing from the fumes, we moved the entire operation outside to the porch. Needless to say, the whole gefilte fish/horseradish experiment in Passover authenticity was never and will never be repeated. I have a cousin who serves an gefilte fish terrine and claims it is fabulous but I think the very concept is an oxymoron.

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Mission Accomplished

Thanks to Liz, of course, who had final edit, to Joan Shepp, buy local not Barney's, and to Tuesday Gordon, incredible stylist and even more wonderful person. This time, good vibes all around.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

I Am On a Mission

My assignment this April: Find a dress for Liz's wedding. So...Tuesday, Liz and I go up to NYC together and spend a few hours at Barney's looking for a dress for me. No good. Everything looks too Mother of the Bride-ish (Hey, I am the Mother of the Bride but I'm still hip and happening, I hope) or something Demi Moore might wear. In other words, too sexy and definitely inappropriate. Plus salesgirls are just plain bitchy. Bad vibes all around.

I've scoured most of the stores in Philly. First stop--Boyd's where all the salesgirls are very curvacious Russian ladies with thick accents and even thicker makeup. I say I'm looking for something for a summer wedding in the woods and they look at me pitifully. Does that mean no caviar? No go at Knit Wit and Plage Tahiti unless I want to pretend I'm 20 something with lots of uplift and a penchant to bare all.

Most depressing is Sophy Curson. I shopped there last years and years ago with my mother. It's where I bought my first and only prom dress, a full length fantasy of pink lace. (BTW, I never did make it to my senior prom, a narcissistic injury I have from which I have never recovered. I wore the dress to my cousin Sue's wedding where I first met my husband at the tender age of 17. But that's a whole other story.) Now it's a fading temple to women in their 60's and 70's. I don't think you're allowed in unless your hair is cut and sprayed like a army helmet and you're wearing a St. John's suit and Ferragamo flats. I was definitely out of place in my jeans and T shirt but I thought I would give it a try for old time's sake. Bad idea. Everything was satin with ruffles and a matching jacket and wrapped in plastic. How long can this place last, I wonder.

To be continued...

Friday, March 27, 2009

My Dad

In all the excitement of coming home from South America, I completely forgot the anniversary of my father's death nine years ago. And, of course, I didn't have my brother to remind me. He's gone too. Was there anyone that day that thought of my dad? I'm the only left who remembers how good he was, how strong and how completely dependable to every member of his family.

My dad...Old faithful, rock of gilbratar, steady eddie, lean on me, solid citizen, silent but deep. Handsome with thick black hair, a roman nose, elegant hands, long toes with ugly twisted toenails, hairy legs, except where his socks came up, pimples on his back and a pointed ear that he would wiggle for our amusement. Short sleeved dress shirts in the summer with pens in the pocket. White bucks or saddle shoes, sometimes. Bow ties that he proudly tied himself.

Down in his office, cabinets filled with needles, large and small. His desk a mess of papers, pills, prescription pads. Books and periodicals jumbled on the shelves behind and on the window sill a small statue of a boy peeing, probably a gift from a drug salesman. The back room, never open, never lit, is empty except for a large dark machine. Front room is the waiting room. The only window blocked by an air conditioner, the door open to the street in good weather. My father standing outside waiting for patients. A framed reproduction of Van Gogh’s sunflowers on the wall.

He’s always home, my dad. During Office Hours, down the steps seeing patients. After Office Hours, upstairs on the sofa or at the table for dinner. He picked me up at school for lunch during the week.

He was the bravest man I knew. For six months, he watched my mom slip away to death knowing in his heart the inevitable ending but doing all he could to protect her from that knowledge. At the end, he sat with her all day long in the hospital, a faithful soldier not saying anything but always there. She was grateful for his presence and I will never forget his constancy.

He couldn’t protect himself as with excruciating but inexorable slowness he lost his independence, his capabilities, his mobility. He was angry; he was sad; but, most of all, he was ashamed that this was happening to him. By the end, he was numb, beaten down by the decline of his body, the deadening of his mind, the loss of words.

I often wondered how he could go on, keep breathing, keep eating, get out of bed. Finally, he stopped.

I miss him.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Living the Good Life in Lima

We arrived in Lima on Saturday afternoon ready to be at sea level once again and to sample the pleasures of city life after our almost three weeks in the country.

How wonderful to be in a city where it's warm--time for sandals and sleeveless shirts--and the Pacific Ocean is right on your doorstep. Dinner that night was fantastico at Astrid y Gaston, a true temple of Peruvian food.

Next day, Sunday, we did like so many Peruvian families and strolled ever so leisurely along the cliffs above the ocean to Barranco, a district of wonderful old colonial architecture, some decrepit but others in various stages of restoration. We stopped for lunch--ceviche, of course--at a local restaurant with a view of the ocean below. That night, we met Rogelio, a friend of Jake's, and his girlfriend and sampled chifa, Peruvian chinese food. Pretty much like American chinese food but without the spice.

Today, we spent the morning being model tourists roaming around il centro or the historic district. Highlight of the morning was our tour of the catacombs of the monastery of San Francisco. Our tour guide for this particularly eerie expedition was a very nervous young man who spoke in rapid fire and low decibel English with a pronounced lisp rendering him completely incomprehensible to all of us on the tour.

We escaped the catacombs and took off for lunch at La Mar, a hip and happening spot for ceviche in Milleflores, an upscale area of Lima. The place was packed but we happily sipped our pisco sours while waiting for our table and a sampling of fabulous ceviche.

To view my photos of our all too brief visit to Lima, click here.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

I SURVIVED THE INCA TRAIL!!

While Steve hung out in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, I had one of the most challenging and amazing experiences of my life—hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, a 26 mile, four day, three night trek over the mountains to the fabled Inca citadel. My companions were Edison, a namesake of the inventor but more importantly a wonderfully knowledgeable guide to Inca history and culture, and Ben and Jeannie, a delightful young couple from Mississippi who made me homesick for Liz and Giul. I was definitely the senior member of our little group and, in fact, most of the hikers I saw on the trail were in their 20’s and 30’s.

Our group also numbered eight porters, all of whom seemed ageless and incredibly fit. They carried our gear, set up camp, cooked our meals and even provided us with a snack each morning for the trail. While I trudged up and down the trail stopping to rest, take pictures, marvel at the foliage and views or look at Inca sites along the way, they powered their way along the trail carrying loads of at least 50 kilos on their backs. When we arrived at our final campsite for the evening, everything was ready for our arrival—hot water for washing up, our tents set up and dinner cooking.

The first day of the hike took place in brilliant blue sunshine with views of snow and ice topped mountains behind and before us and the Urubamba River below us. The trail wound gently up past farms and adobe houses. Along the way, women were selling bottles of water or Gatorade to passing hikers. If a house or stand had a pole with a red plastic bag tied to the end at was a sign that chicha—a kind of beer made from fermented corn—was available. I can’t tell you want it tastes like because I safely decided to stick to water. At night after hiking about five hours, we camped next to a cornfield. After dinner, I cuddled into my sleeping bag and was lulled to sleep by the sounds of a stream and the croaking of tiny frogs.

Day Two was the real challenge. We woke up at 6am and by 7:30 were on the trail going up and up and up to Dead Woman’s Pass at an altitude of almost 14,000 ft. My heart was pounding, my legs were aching but turning back was never an option. After some five hours climbing huge granite steps to reach the pass, it was another two hours down those “evil steps” ever so carefully, until I arrived at camp for the night. After dinner, I put on just about all my clothes, climbed into my sleeping bag and slept like a baby in the cold mountain air.

The next day took us for hours through a lush cloud forest featuring amazing varieties of orchids, bromeliads, mosses and ferns. After lunch, the trail also featured four hours of torrential rain, effectively soaking all my clothes, my backpack and my shoes. My tent that night smelled like a high school gym since I laid out everything--including a sodden wad of Peruvian money--next to my sleeping bag in a vain attempt to dry out my belongings.

On the final morning, we woke up at 4 am to get ready for the final push to Machu Picchu. The rain had stopped but the clouds remained. When we arrived at the Sun Gate after some three hours of hiking, Machu Picchu was lost in a lake of swirling clouds--a true fantasy kingdom. By 10, the sun appeared and the clouds vanished to reveal the truly incredible grandeur and beauty of the site. Machu Picchu is indeed a wonder of the world but for me the real value and meaning of the experience was getting there over those four days. I am unashamedly proud of my accomplishment.

For some of my photos of the hike and Machu Picchu, click here.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Cusco

We arrived in Cusco last night after a 10 hour train trip across the Andes. We started out in the freezing cold--ice on the ground and no heat on the train, meandered slowly over the Andes passing through several small towns each featuring a market selling everything from engine parts to sneakers and then slowly wound our way through lush green valleys along the river to Cusco. Incredible vistas the entire way but it was a long trip.

Cusco seems very lively--full of tourists all wearing the same clothes--convertible trekking pants, tee shirts, fleeces and, of course, cameras. There seems to be a lot of Brits here. The train was full of them, complaining about the high price of a beer which was not included in the "package."

Tonight I went for the orientation for my hike of the Inca Trail. My group is just me and a young couple from Mississippi. So much for their romantic experience. I just hope I don't slow them down too much. I'm leaving Steve in the hands of Ruben, our local guide here in Cusco. We will meet again at Macchu Pichu on Thursday.

To see my pictures from Lake Tititcaca click here.