The New Season

One day you're wearing flipflops and the next day, you're rummaging through your closet for a fleece. I guess it's fall. Even tonight's dinner--pasta with chickpeas and a salad of raw kale, ricotta salata and a lemon shallot dressing--says the summer is over. Gazpacho, my summer fave, no longer is the right taste. How many days before we give up on fresh tomatoes altogether?