Our last day at Casselacce and, fittingly, the weather is exceptionally beautiful--sunny but not too hot and with a lovely breeze.
I set out for my last marathon walk up the hill to be greeted immediately by the ferocious sheep dogs. This time one dog follows me so closely that I can feel his breath on the back of my legs, a rather unnerving experience but, as always, I keep on walking past them refusing to panic. The sheep now have been shorn of their woolly coats and if there was ever a creature that looked like it needed protection it is a very pink and naked sheep huddled closely to its equally pathetic brothers and sisters.
I've taken this walk so many times this month but today I am really struck by how the landscape has changed in the four weeks. The fields are no longer uniformly green but an undulating pattern of green and gold and brown. Huge wheels of hay are laying randomly in some of the fields, like giant game pieces waiting to be played in some mysterious game. There are so many different flowers in so many colors--tall purple thistles, red poppies with paper thin petals, bushes of wild roses, tiny pink and white and purple creepers, bright yellow buttercups and dandelions.
Two days ago, Jonathan and I hiked all the way to Castiglioncello del Trinoro so today I turn left towards La Foce. The climbing roses are dry and dusty on the walls of the graveyard but now there are pots of red and pink geraniums inside the walls. It's nice to know that someone is taking care of this place.
On the way back I pass a serious group of walkers, all dressed in walking shorts, hiking shoes, floppy hats and carrying walking sticks. "The tourists are coming! The tourists are coming!" I guess it is time to leave.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Un Giorno Stradinario
Every day at Cassalocche has been special but this day was especially so.
After an early morning walk, we all (Liz and Giul, Steve and me and recent college graduate Jonathan Beck) headed out to Podere Il Casale.
The farm is located up on a hill midway between Pienza and Montecchiello with astounding views all around. We are greeted by Sandra. How to describe her: Beautiful, stylish, incredibly energetic, charismatic, an amazing combination of Germanic efficiency and Italian brio. We meet the resident donkey and peacocks; tour the cheese making facility, learn about her five (!) sons ranging in age from 9 to 21. Lunch is outside and all the food and wine is prepared by her from their farm--incredible cheeses--pecorino, chevre and gorgonzola--home cured meats, spelt bread, grilled eggplant, roasted peppers, pasta with an aspargus pesto, farro salad, cabbage saute, red wine, and to top it off chocolate cake made with chestnut flour and olive oil. We are all awed by the setting and the life style.
Back to Casellaccia and bocce and scrabble by the pool. Kenny arrives and we celebrate another sunset with pink prosecco and individual pizzas.
After an early morning walk, we all (Liz and Giul, Steve and me and recent college graduate Jonathan Beck) headed out to Podere Il Casale.
The farm is located up on a hill midway between Pienza and Montecchiello with astounding views all around. We are greeted by Sandra. How to describe her: Beautiful, stylish, incredibly energetic, charismatic, an amazing combination of Germanic efficiency and Italian brio. We meet the resident donkey and peacocks; tour the cheese making facility, learn about her five (!) sons ranging in age from 9 to 21. Lunch is outside and all the food and wine is prepared by her from their farm--incredible cheeses--pecorino, chevre and gorgonzola--home cured meats, spelt bread, grilled eggplant, roasted peppers, pasta with an aspargus pesto, farro salad, cabbage saute, red wine, and to top it off chocolate cake made with chestnut flour and olive oil. We are all awed by the setting and the life style.
Back to Casellaccia and bocce and scrabble by the pool. Kenny arrives and we celebrate another sunset with pink prosecco and individual pizzas.
Monday, May 25, 2009
La Dolce Vita
Tuscany is turning me into a blonde...a chubby blonde. It's hot and dry and most mornings we spend in a semi comatose state out by the pool recovering from last night's dinner alla Marcella.
Yesterday I woke early and took a long walk up the hill and then across the ridge to La Foce, passing fields of fava beans and wheat and olive trees. It was Sunday and there was no one on the road. Even the sheep dogs were sleeping, thank goodness. Usually they bark and bark as I approach and sometimes come out of the fence and follow me, gnarling fiercely all the way, until I am deemed sufficiently distant from their precious sheep.
It's amazing how different the landscape looks every day. When we came, the wheat was barely inches tall and now it's three feet high and swaying in the wind like waves in the ocean. Each day another field is plowed making a patchwork of green and gold stripes. The bushes of bright yellow broom with its passionate and powerful aroma are almost gone but red poppies and wild roses are everywhere along the road along with tiny pick and purple flowers. It's been almost four weeks but I am still completely enraptured by my surroundings.
Most of our excursions take place at the end of the day when the sun is cooled off and the light is golden. One day we drove to Pienza and another to Radicofane, coming back to Casselocche just in time for sunset and prosecco.
Yesterday I woke early and took a long walk up the hill and then across the ridge to La Foce, passing fields of fava beans and wheat and olive trees. It was Sunday and there was no one on the road. Even the sheep dogs were sleeping, thank goodness. Usually they bark and bark as I approach and sometimes come out of the fence and follow me, gnarling fiercely all the way, until I am deemed sufficiently distant from their precious sheep.
It's amazing how different the landscape looks every day. When we came, the wheat was barely inches tall and now it's three feet high and swaying in the wind like waves in the ocean. Each day another field is plowed making a patchwork of green and gold stripes. The bushes of bright yellow broom with its passionate and powerful aroma are almost gone but red poppies and wild roses are everywhere along the road along with tiny pick and purple flowers. It's been almost four weeks but I am still completely enraptured by my surroundings.
Most of our excursions take place at the end of the day when the sun is cooled off and the light is golden. One day we drove to Pienza and another to Radicofane, coming back to Casselocche just in time for sunset and prosecco.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Sono Molta Contenta Qui
It's sunny and hot now as it has been for the last few days. I've fallen into a wonderful routine--marathons walks either in the early morning or late afternoon, a leisurely lunch outside, games of bocce on the lawn, sunset viewing with a glass of prosecco f0llowed by another fabulous dinner, stargazing and then off to bed. It's even better now that Liz and Giul are here to share it all.
Like everyone who's been to Casselocche this month, they were immediately enraptured by the house and the landscape. And what a special pleasure it is to be here together with Alfonse and Anita as well.
It's almost unsettling when I think about the amazing year I've had so far--hiking the Andes to Machu Picchu, a month in Tuscany--but it all is a lead up to this summer's main event--the wedding of Elizabetha and Giuliano alla casa nostra sul lago.
Like everyone who's been to Casselocche this month, they were immediately enraptured by the house and the landscape. And what a special pleasure it is to be here together with Alfonse and Anita as well.
It's almost unsettling when I think about the amazing year I've had so far--hiking the Andes to Machu Picchu, a month in Tuscany--but it all is a lead up to this summer's main event--the wedding of Elizabetha and Giuliano alla casa nostra sul lago.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
The Next Shift
The Kaufmans have left only to be replaced by the Pignataros. Since Alfonse is himself un cuoco magnifico, I have taken special care to plan the menus for his stay here. His first dinner does not disappoint. First course: my all time favorite--a salad of fresh fava beans, pecorino cheese and proscuitto; pasta--ravioli alla Marcella which means ravioli with a pear and ricotta cheese stuffing topped with grated parmesean and pear (!); main course--a flavorful saute of squid and potatoes with peperocino accompanied by an arugala salad; dessert--an amazing chocolate confection with strawberries and ice cream. He is suitably impressed.
Today, we all drove to Radicofane, a tiny renaissance town way up on a hill. Feeling virtuous and most certainly in desperate need of exercise we climbed all the way up the hill through the town and the woods to the ruins of the castle at the very top. The air was so clean and fresh and the views stupendous. We got back to Cassalocche in time for a lunch of leftovers. We're not talking stale bread or day old tuna salad either.
Now it's siesta time except for Steve who is happily getting a massage by Silvio. I am still debating whether to take a walk or just settle comfortably into a chair and read. Maybe I can do both.
Today, we all drove to Radicofane, a tiny renaissance town way up on a hill. Feeling virtuous and most certainly in desperate need of exercise we climbed all the way up the hill through the town and the woods to the ruins of the castle at the very top. The air was so clean and fresh and the views stupendous. We got back to Cassalocche in time for a lunch of leftovers. We're not talking stale bread or day old tuna salad either.
Now it's siesta time except for Steve who is happily getting a massage by Silvio. I am still debating whether to take a walk or just settle comfortably into a chair and read. Maybe I can do both.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
A Lazy Day
There must have been something in last night's dinner because this morning the six of us woke up in a totally soporific state. Speaking for myself, I could barely summon up the strength to put on suncreen and lay by the pool. Somehow I managed.
I think it was the dessert--fat, juicy fresh pears poached in a rich red wine sauce which we accompanied with glases of Marcella's own vin santo. We got up from the table and lurched into the living room for an evening of Scrabble and Sorry.
Tomorrow Asha and Josh leave in the early morning so I have resolved to take a long walk once I say goodbye to the happy couple to make up for today's delicious laziness.
I think it was the dessert--fat, juicy fresh pears poached in a rich red wine sauce which we accompanied with glases of Marcella's own vin santo. We got up from the table and lurched into the living room for an evening of Scrabble and Sorry.
Tomorrow Asha and Josh leave in the early morning so I have resolved to take a long walk once I say goodbye to the happy couple to make up for today's delicious laziness.
Friday, May 15, 2009
An Excursion
The Kaufman clan is here--Elliott, Jeelu, Asha and Josh--and have oh-so-quickly acclimatized themselves to the rhythm of life here at Cassalocce. That means sleeping late, playing bocce or just chilling by the pool or hot tub, taking long walks at the end of the day in preparation for yet another fantastic dinner alla Marcella then toddling up to bed thoroughly satiated and perhaps just a little inebriated after a fierce game of Sorry or Scrabble. Truly, the simple life.
Today, to break the "monotony," we all piled into the car and headed out for an excursion. I should clarify. Not all of us. Steve remained behind determined not to miss the leftover pollo alla grigliata from last night's dinner for his lunch. But the five of us were game for an afternoon of exploration supported by our trusty GPS system which spouts directions in Italian, of course.
We headed for Montapulciano, a charming (aren't they all!) Renaissance town high up on a hill overlooking vineyards and rolling fields of olive trees and wheat. Somehow, I can't imagine ever tiring of this landscape. Once there we ambled slowly up and down the narrow streets, fortunately nearly empty of tourists this time of year and walked through the main piazza with its rather grim church. I love how clean these little towns are--no graffiti, not a speck of litter on the streets--all the window boxes sporting bright red and pink and purple geraniums, wonderful wooden doors with polished antique knockers, terracotta tiled roofs and old bricks the color of the sun.
It was 2 o'clock and time for a meal so we scoped out the possibilities and decided on a tiny cafe with just the right vibe. (As my daughter Elizabeth has taught me, it is all about the vibe.) What a treat! The waiter was a very earnest and adorable young man who carefully explained the menu to us and each ingredient's local provenance, had us taste a number of local organic wines before having us choose a bottle for lunch, and then brought numerous bottles of olive oil and specified exactly what they should be poured on. Out of the kitchen came a slender young woman, his wife and the chef. Although we ate relatively lightly--assorted bruschetta and then a seleczioni of local cheeses and meats--all was delicious and prepared with real care. Definitely worth a repeat visit, we all decided.
Today, to break the "monotony," we all piled into the car and headed out for an excursion. I should clarify. Not all of us. Steve remained behind determined not to miss the leftover pollo alla grigliata from last night's dinner for his lunch. But the five of us were game for an afternoon of exploration supported by our trusty GPS system which spouts directions in Italian, of course.
We headed for Montapulciano, a charming (aren't they all!) Renaissance town high up on a hill overlooking vineyards and rolling fields of olive trees and wheat. Somehow, I can't imagine ever tiring of this landscape. Once there we ambled slowly up and down the narrow streets, fortunately nearly empty of tourists this time of year and walked through the main piazza with its rather grim church. I love how clean these little towns are--no graffiti, not a speck of litter on the streets--all the window boxes sporting bright red and pink and purple geraniums, wonderful wooden doors with polished antique knockers, terracotta tiled roofs and old bricks the color of the sun.
It was 2 o'clock and time for a meal so we scoped out the possibilities and decided on a tiny cafe with just the right vibe. (As my daughter Elizabeth has taught me, it is all about the vibe.) What a treat! The waiter was a very earnest and adorable young man who carefully explained the menu to us and each ingredient's local provenance, had us taste a number of local organic wines before having us choose a bottle for lunch, and then brought numerous bottles of olive oil and specified exactly what they should be poured on. Out of the kitchen came a slender young woman, his wife and the chef. Although we ate relatively lightly--assorted bruschetta and then a seleczioni of local cheeses and meats--all was delicious and prepared with real care. Definitely worth a repeat visit, we all decided.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Cheese, Cheese, Cheese
Can a person eat too much cheese? Right now I feel that if you pricked me, there would be no blood just an ooze of creamy white pecorino. Last night as Marcella continues to kill us with kindness, we had pici, the local Tuscan pasta, alla cacio e pepe. (N.B. Earlier that morning I watched Marcella make pici and even partook in the process. Despite my participation, I am not at all confident that I can replicate the product on my own.) That means pasta in a delicous and unctuous sauce of percorino, parmegiano and fresh ground pepper. This was followed by several vegetarian dishes, two of which featured cheese, of course. The coup de gras was a wonderful gooey chocolate dessert with ice cream and strawberries. God only know what my cholestrol levels are now!
So today we drove into Montalcino, yet another beautiful walled Renaissance city about a half hour drive from the villa here for a stroll. And what did I have for lunch but pecorino cheese melted on bread and topped with local honey. (A definite improvement over Little Pete's grilled cheese.) On our return to the house, I immediately took off for a marathon 3 hour walk up the hills to Campiglioncello del Trinoro in a vain attempt to walk off some of the cheese and calories. I left Steve, perfectly content but looking suspiciously like a beached whale, on the lawn. I got back just in time for sunset which meant prosecco and, yes, a few slices of pecorino con pepperoncino, just one of the local cheeses which Steve and I had purchased yesterday at the fattoria of Giusippe conveniently located just five minutes down the road.
So today we drove into Montalcino, yet another beautiful walled Renaissance city about a half hour drive from the villa here for a stroll. And what did I have for lunch but pecorino cheese melted on bread and topped with local honey. (A definite improvement over Little Pete's grilled cheese.) On our return to the house, I immediately took off for a marathon 3 hour walk up the hills to Campiglioncello del Trinoro in a vain attempt to walk off some of the cheese and calories. I left Steve, perfectly content but looking suspiciously like a beached whale, on the lawn. I got back just in time for sunset which meant prosecco and, yes, a few slices of pecorino con pepperoncino, just one of the local cheeses which Steve and I had purchased yesterday at the fattoria of Giusippe conveniently located just five minutes down the road.
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Another Perfect Day
Woke up to another sunny, warm day and a delicious glass of fresh orange and red grapefruit juice. I may never have another diet coke! After a quick game of bocce on the lawn, we headed off to Pienza, for the Festa di Fiori. Pienza, a perfect renaissance town up on a hill and only a 15 minute drive from the villa, would be beautiful and charming anytime given its setting and classic architecture but it was even more so today when the narrow streets were lined with booths selling flowers and plants. Great people watching too. Lots of well addressed Italians out for the day.
But what I love most about Pienza is the smell. Even with the flowers, the predominant aroma throughout the town was still that of pecorino cheese, emanating from the many small stores featuring rounds of the local cheese in various stages of aging.
When we got back to the house, we feasted yet again on Marcella's leftovers--the fava bean and pecorino salad which I could happily eat every day--fat spears of white asparagus baked with parmesean, accompanied, of course, by a glass of white wine. As now is my custom, I took a long walk in the late afternoon. The light is especially beautiful then, a golden green that turns the hills into velvet. What always impresses me on my walks is the profound silence. I hear a cuckoo bird once in a while although I've never seen one. I scare a pheasant out of the bushes. I hear bullfrogs in the watering holes. Once in a while a car passes throwing up a cloud of white dust. I never see anyone else walking. Only the sheep dogs seem aware of my presence, barking ferociously when I walk past their charges.
I got back in time for prosecco and sunset.
But what I love most about Pienza is the smell. Even with the flowers, the predominant aroma throughout the town was still that of pecorino cheese, emanating from the many small stores featuring rounds of the local cheese in various stages of aging.
When we got back to the house, we feasted yet again on Marcella's leftovers--the fava bean and pecorino salad which I could happily eat every day--fat spears of white asparagus baked with parmesean, accompanied, of course, by a glass of white wine. As now is my custom, I took a long walk in the late afternoon. The light is especially beautiful then, a golden green that turns the hills into velvet. What always impresses me on my walks is the profound silence. I hear a cuckoo bird once in a while although I've never seen one. I scare a pheasant out of the bushes. I hear bullfrogs in the watering holes. Once in a while a car passes throwing up a cloud of white dust. I never see anyone else walking. Only the sheep dogs seem aware of my presence, barking ferociously when I walk past their charges.
I got back in time for prosecco and sunset.
Friday, May 8, 2009
On the Road
We've been here at Cassellocce for almost a week but already I have my routines, of which one is to take a long, long walk up the dirt road behind the house. I already have my landmarks--1/2 hour to the start of the climb up the first mountain--and different routes I've yet to explore. For the two hours I'm out on the road, I see hardly anyone and very few cars. It's just me and the sheep. . . and the barking sheep dogs that protect them so fiercely.
Yesterday I took a new turn that took me along a pleasantly widing and shady road. After about an hour, I stopped at a tiny graveyard with a sweet little chapel at the end. The iron gate was locked so I couldn't get in but I could see the gravestones, lined up tightly in neat rows and all of them mounted with small formal photographs in oval frames of the deceased. The effect was of an audience patiently waiting for the show to begin.
On my way home I was joined by a dog who followed me all the way back to the house. And, in fact, when we woke up this morning I found the dog in the kitchen--much to Steve's dismay--where he had eaten all the remaining biscotti and plum torte. Fortunately, the dog is now gone thanks to the gardener who called the "Guarda" and, best of all, Giovanna has baked us a strawberry torta for dinner.
Yesterday I took a new turn that took me along a pleasantly widing and shady road. After about an hour, I stopped at a tiny graveyard with a sweet little chapel at the end. The iron gate was locked so I couldn't get in but I could see the gravestones, lined up tightly in neat rows and all of them mounted with small formal photographs in oval frames of the deceased. The effect was of an audience patiently waiting for the show to begin.
On my way home I was joined by a dog who followed me all the way back to the house. And, in fact, when we woke up this morning I found the dog in the kitchen--much to Steve's dismay--where he had eaten all the remaining biscotti and plum torte. Fortunately, the dog is now gone thanks to the gardener who called the "Guarda" and, best of all, Giovanna has baked us a strawberry torta for dinner.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
On Our Own
The house party that raged for five straight days and nights is now over. Bob and Jane and Rachel and Noah and Isaac and Leo and Jacob have packed up their suitcases and multiple bags of baby gear, cheese, salami, etc. etc. etc. and have flown away leaving Steve and I all by ourselves in paradise. The silence after all the hoopla is truly overwhelming. Now we are faced with the wonderful reality of having this fabulous house, these incredible vistas all to ourselves for a week--just enough time to recuperate and get ready for the next wave of festivities when Jeelu and Elliott, Josh and Asha arrive.
We've given Marcella the rest of the day off and have decided to eat out of the refrigerator for our lunch and dinner. And what a refrigerator awaits us! An incredible selection of cheese and meats, various pasta sauces, leftover ribollita, grilled vegetables. . . you get the picture. . .not to mention the delicous biscotti, cookies and a beautiful torte filled with pureed prunes that Giovanna, Marcella's assistant, baked for us over the last few days.
Last night's dinner, the final debauch of the Toll visit (It's shocking the number of bottles of wine consumed while they were here!) was incredible as always. The highlight was Marcella's very special ravioli stuffed with percorino and pear and parmesean. All of us were blown away by the combination of flavors. And, to think, I will get to eat this again...
We've given Marcella the rest of the day off and have decided to eat out of the refrigerator for our lunch and dinner. And what a refrigerator awaits us! An incredible selection of cheese and meats, various pasta sauces, leftover ribollita, grilled vegetables. . . you get the picture. . .not to mention the delicous biscotti, cookies and a beautiful torte filled with pureed prunes that Giovanna, Marcella's assistant, baked for us over the last few days.
Last night's dinner, the final debauch of the Toll visit (It's shocking the number of bottles of wine consumed while they were here!) was incredible as always. The highlight was Marcella's very special ravioli stuffed with percorino and pear and parmesean. All of us were blown away by the combination of flavors. And, to think, I will get to eat this again...
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
The Perfect Birthday
Today (May 5 for future reference) was my birthday. I won't reveal the year. This is how I spent it.
Took a walk up the path past the house with Steve. Incredible views. Lots of sheep.
Drove into Pienza with Bob and Jane. Toured city, ate lunch, bought molto pecorino cheese and salami from hot guy to bring to Maine this summer. Now it's up to Jane to grow the fava beans.
Drove to another adorable Tuscan village--Bagno Vignoli--with ancient Roman bath.
Drove back to Casselloccia. Took a shower. Got ready for dinner. Bob and Steve played bocce on the lawn.
Went to dinner at La Porta in Monticchello since it was Marcella's day off. Had prosecco on roof overlooking sunset. Ate dinner--risotto with white aspargus and white truffles was a highlight--drank two bottles of Casonva da Neri wine and then finished off with an Ornellaia--sang happy birthday multiple times.
Forunately, driven back to Casseloccia. The rest is history.
Took a walk up the path past the house with Steve. Incredible views. Lots of sheep.
Drove into Pienza with Bob and Jane. Toured city, ate lunch, bought molto pecorino cheese and salami from hot guy to bring to Maine this summer. Now it's up to Jane to grow the fava beans.
Drove to another adorable Tuscan village--Bagno Vignoli--with ancient Roman bath.
Drove back to Casselloccia. Took a shower. Got ready for dinner. Bob and Steve played bocce on the lawn.
Went to dinner at La Porta in Monticchello since it was Marcella's day off. Had prosecco on roof overlooking sunset. Ate dinner--risotto with white aspargus and white truffles was a highlight--drank two bottles of Casonva da Neri wine and then finished off with an Ornellaia--sang happy birthday multiple times.
Forunately, driven back to Casseloccia. The rest is history.
Monday, May 4, 2009
Podere Casselloccia
I am living in a fantasy, on a stage set, in a movie. From every window, I see a classic Tuscan landscape of gently rolling green hills occasionally dotted with herds of fat white sheep and punctuated by rows of tall green cypress trees that mark the entryways to farms or villas. It is incredibly peaceful and beautiful.
I'm also on my way to gaining mega amounts of weight thanks to the fabulous cooking of Marcella, our housekeeper and cook. Every lunch and dinner is a three course extravaganza featuring antipasti, pasta and then a main course washed down with seemingly endless bottles of wine. Bob and Jane are here with their crew so moderation is definitely not on the agenda but I vow that next week when Steve and I are here alone that our menu choices will be more sensible but still delicious.
The house itself is huge but homey, with lots of comfortable nooks both inside and out for reading and relaxing and all with incredible vistas. Chances are Steve will never leave. But I am looking forward to exploring the many small towns and sites close by. Yesterday Bob and Jane and I took a mini excursion to Montepulciano, a medieval walled city about 20 minutes from here. Somehow we managed to negotiate our way through the very narrow streets and even found our way back home without the benefit of the GPS.
I'm also on my way to gaining mega amounts of weight thanks to the fabulous cooking of Marcella, our housekeeper and cook. Every lunch and dinner is a three course extravaganza featuring antipasti, pasta and then a main course washed down with seemingly endless bottles of wine. Bob and Jane are here with their crew so moderation is definitely not on the agenda but I vow that next week when Steve and I are here alone that our menu choices will be more sensible but still delicious.
The house itself is huge but homey, with lots of comfortable nooks both inside and out for reading and relaxing and all with incredible vistas. Chances are Steve will never leave. But I am looking forward to exploring the many small towns and sites close by. Yesterday Bob and Jane and I took a mini excursion to Montepulciano, a medieval walled city about 20 minutes from here. Somehow we managed to negotiate our way through the very narrow streets and even found our way back home without the benefit of the GPS.
Friday, May 1, 2009
May Day
Il Primo da Maggio is a national holiday in Italy, sort of their Labor Day, and in Rome that means that all the stores and businesses are closed and everyone is on the streets enjoying a gloriously warm and sunny day.
Our routine is just the same as every other day we've been here. We wake up shockingly late and then head like homing pigeons to our old neighborhood of Trastevere where we sit in the square and drink fresh squeezed orange juice and watch the world go by. Since today was our last day in Rome, we even went into the church of Santa Maria da Trastevere to ooh and aah at the mosaics and then took a sentimental walk past our old house at Vicolo del Cedro 12.
By then, it was time for lunch so we strolled across the Ponte Sisto to the Pantheon, the most perfect building in all of Rome. After the required awestruck gaze up at the dome, we had a fabulous lunch sitting outside at La Rosetta. We were on our best behavior and only ordered a half bottle of wine to go with our oysters and fresh fish.
Our post-lunch activity was another stroll. . .this time to the Piazza del Populo and then up to the Borghese Gardens. I have never seen the Borghese as crowded as today. It seemed like every Italian family was there pushing strollers and carrying balloons. Even the grass was crowded with kids playing frisbee or lovesick teenagers making out furiously. We wandered through a festival featuring food and drink from every area of Italy and Steve staunchly resisted the temptation to sample every salami and cheese on display.
Last stop on our march was the Spanish Steps, mobbed as always with tourists but worth a quick visit to see the masses of pink azaleas arranged on the steps. We walked along the river back to our hotel on Via Guilia in time for Steve to get a massage and for me to relax before we need to stroll out once again to dinner.
Not a bad schedule but it ends tonight. Tomorrow, it's on to Tuscany.
Our routine is just the same as every other day we've been here. We wake up shockingly late and then head like homing pigeons to our old neighborhood of Trastevere where we sit in the square and drink fresh squeezed orange juice and watch the world go by. Since today was our last day in Rome, we even went into the church of Santa Maria da Trastevere to ooh and aah at the mosaics and then took a sentimental walk past our old house at Vicolo del Cedro 12.
By then, it was time for lunch so we strolled across the Ponte Sisto to the Pantheon, the most perfect building in all of Rome. After the required awestruck gaze up at the dome, we had a fabulous lunch sitting outside at La Rosetta. We were on our best behavior and only ordered a half bottle of wine to go with our oysters and fresh fish.
Our post-lunch activity was another stroll. . .this time to the Piazza del Populo and then up to the Borghese Gardens. I have never seen the Borghese as crowded as today. It seemed like every Italian family was there pushing strollers and carrying balloons. Even the grass was crowded with kids playing frisbee or lovesick teenagers making out furiously. We wandered through a festival featuring food and drink from every area of Italy and Steve staunchly resisted the temptation to sample every salami and cheese on display.
Last stop on our march was the Spanish Steps, mobbed as always with tourists but worth a quick visit to see the masses of pink azaleas arranged on the steps. We walked along the river back to our hotel on Via Guilia in time for Steve to get a massage and for me to relax before we need to stroll out once again to dinner.
Not a bad schedule but it ends tonight. Tomorrow, it's on to Tuscany.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
