Our last day at Casselacce and, fittingly, the weather is exceptionally beautiful--sunny but not too hot and with a lovely breeze.
I set out for my last marathon walk up the hill to be greeted immediately by the ferocious sheep dogs. This time one dog follows me so closely that I can feel his breath on the back of my legs, a rather unnerving experience but, as always, I keep on walking past them refusing to panic. The sheep now have been shorn of their woolly coats and if there was ever a creature that looked like it needed protection it is a very pink and naked sheep huddled closely to its equally pathetic brothers and sisters.
I've taken this walk so many times this month but today I am really struck by how the landscape has changed in the four weeks. The fields are no longer uniformly green but an undulating pattern of green and gold and brown. Huge wheels of hay are laying randomly in some of the fields, like giant game pieces waiting to be played in some mysterious game. There are so many different flowers in so many colors--tall purple thistles, red poppies with paper thin petals, bushes of wild roses, tiny pink and white and purple creepers, bright yellow buttercups and dandelions.
Two days ago, Jonathan and I hiked all the way to Castiglioncello del Trinoro so today I turn left towards La Foce. The climbing roses are dry and dusty on the walls of the graveyard but now there are pots of red and pink geraniums inside the walls. It's nice to know that someone is taking care of this place.
On the way back I pass a serious group of walkers, all dressed in walking shorts, hiking shoes, floppy hats and carrying walking sticks. "The tourists are coming! The tourists are coming!" I guess it is time to leave.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Un Giorno Stradinario
Every day at Cassalocche has been special but this day was especially so.
After an early morning walk, we all (Liz and Giul, Steve and me and recent college graduate Jonathan Beck) headed out to Podere Il Casale.
The farm is located up on a hill midway between Pienza and Montecchiello with astounding views all around. We are greeted by Sandra. How to describe her: Beautiful, stylish, incredibly energetic, charismatic, an amazing combination of Germanic efficiency and Italian brio. We meet the resident donkey and peacocks; tour the cheese making facility, learn about her five (!) sons ranging in age from 9 to 21. Lunch is outside and all the food and wine is prepared by her from their farm--incredible cheeses--pecorino, chevre and gorgonzola--home cured meats, spelt bread, grilled eggplant, roasted peppers, pasta with an aspargus pesto, farro salad, cabbage saute, red wine, and to top it off chocolate cake made with chestnut flour and olive oil. We are all awed by the setting and the life style.
Back to Casellaccia and bocce and scrabble by the pool. Kenny arrives and we celebrate another sunset with pink prosecco and individual pizzas.
After an early morning walk, we all (Liz and Giul, Steve and me and recent college graduate Jonathan Beck) headed out to Podere Il Casale.
The farm is located up on a hill midway between Pienza and Montecchiello with astounding views all around. We are greeted by Sandra. How to describe her: Beautiful, stylish, incredibly energetic, charismatic, an amazing combination of Germanic efficiency and Italian brio. We meet the resident donkey and peacocks; tour the cheese making facility, learn about her five (!) sons ranging in age from 9 to 21. Lunch is outside and all the food and wine is prepared by her from their farm--incredible cheeses--pecorino, chevre and gorgonzola--home cured meats, spelt bread, grilled eggplant, roasted peppers, pasta with an aspargus pesto, farro salad, cabbage saute, red wine, and to top it off chocolate cake made with chestnut flour and olive oil. We are all awed by the setting and the life style.
Back to Casellaccia and bocce and scrabble by the pool. Kenny arrives and we celebrate another sunset with pink prosecco and individual pizzas.
Monday, May 25, 2009
La Dolce Vita
Tuscany is turning me into a blonde...a chubby blonde. It's hot and dry and most mornings we spend in a semi comatose state out by the pool recovering from last night's dinner alla Marcella.
Yesterday I woke early and took a long walk up the hill and then across the ridge to La Foce, passing fields of fava beans and wheat and olive trees. It was Sunday and there was no one on the road. Even the sheep dogs were sleeping, thank goodness. Usually they bark and bark as I approach and sometimes come out of the fence and follow me, gnarling fiercely all the way, until I am deemed sufficiently distant from their precious sheep.
It's amazing how different the landscape looks every day. When we came, the wheat was barely inches tall and now it's three feet high and swaying in the wind like waves in the ocean. Each day another field is plowed making a patchwork of green and gold stripes. The bushes of bright yellow broom with its passionate and powerful aroma are almost gone but red poppies and wild roses are everywhere along the road along with tiny pick and purple flowers. It's been almost four weeks but I am still completely enraptured by my surroundings.
Most of our excursions take place at the end of the day when the sun is cooled off and the light is golden. One day we drove to Pienza and another to Radicofane, coming back to Casselocche just in time for sunset and prosecco.
Yesterday I woke early and took a long walk up the hill and then across the ridge to La Foce, passing fields of fava beans and wheat and olive trees. It was Sunday and there was no one on the road. Even the sheep dogs were sleeping, thank goodness. Usually they bark and bark as I approach and sometimes come out of the fence and follow me, gnarling fiercely all the way, until I am deemed sufficiently distant from their precious sheep.
It's amazing how different the landscape looks every day. When we came, the wheat was barely inches tall and now it's three feet high and swaying in the wind like waves in the ocean. Each day another field is plowed making a patchwork of green and gold stripes. The bushes of bright yellow broom with its passionate and powerful aroma are almost gone but red poppies and wild roses are everywhere along the road along with tiny pick and purple flowers. It's been almost four weeks but I am still completely enraptured by my surroundings.
Most of our excursions take place at the end of the day when the sun is cooled off and the light is golden. One day we drove to Pienza and another to Radicofane, coming back to Casselocche just in time for sunset and prosecco.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Sono Molta Contenta Qui
It's sunny and hot now as it has been for the last few days. I've fallen into a wonderful routine--marathons walks either in the early morning or late afternoon, a leisurely lunch outside, games of bocce on the lawn, sunset viewing with a glass of prosecco f0llowed by another fabulous dinner, stargazing and then off to bed. It's even better now that Liz and Giul are here to share it all.
Like everyone who's been to Casselocche this month, they were immediately enraptured by the house and the landscape. And what a special pleasure it is to be here together with Alfonse and Anita as well.
It's almost unsettling when I think about the amazing year I've had so far--hiking the Andes to Machu Picchu, a month in Tuscany--but it all is a lead up to this summer's main event--the wedding of Elizabetha and Giuliano alla casa nostra sul lago.
Like everyone who's been to Casselocche this month, they were immediately enraptured by the house and the landscape. And what a special pleasure it is to be here together with Alfonse and Anita as well.
It's almost unsettling when I think about the amazing year I've had so far--hiking the Andes to Machu Picchu, a month in Tuscany--but it all is a lead up to this summer's main event--the wedding of Elizabetha and Giuliano alla casa nostra sul lago.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
The Next Shift
The Kaufmans have left only to be replaced by the Pignataros. Since Alfonse is himself un cuoco magnifico, I have taken special care to plan the menus for his stay here. His first dinner does not disappoint. First course: my all time favorite--a salad of fresh fava beans, pecorino cheese and proscuitto; pasta--ravioli alla Marcella which means ravioli with a pear and ricotta cheese stuffing topped with grated parmesean and pear (!); main course--a flavorful saute of squid and potatoes with peperocino accompanied by an arugala salad; dessert--an amazing chocolate confection with strawberries and ice cream. He is suitably impressed.
Today, we all drove to Radicofane, a tiny renaissance town way up on a hill. Feeling virtuous and most certainly in desperate need of exercise we climbed all the way up the hill through the town and the woods to the ruins of the castle at the very top. The air was so clean and fresh and the views stupendous. We got back to Cassalocche in time for a lunch of leftovers. We're not talking stale bread or day old tuna salad either.
Now it's siesta time except for Steve who is happily getting a massage by Silvio. I am still debating whether to take a walk or just settle comfortably into a chair and read. Maybe I can do both.
Today, we all drove to Radicofane, a tiny renaissance town way up on a hill. Feeling virtuous and most certainly in desperate need of exercise we climbed all the way up the hill through the town and the woods to the ruins of the castle at the very top. The air was so clean and fresh and the views stupendous. We got back to Cassalocche in time for a lunch of leftovers. We're not talking stale bread or day old tuna salad either.
Now it's siesta time except for Steve who is happily getting a massage by Silvio. I am still debating whether to take a walk or just settle comfortably into a chair and read. Maybe I can do both.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
A Lazy Day
There must have been something in last night's dinner because this morning the six of us woke up in a totally soporific state. Speaking for myself, I could barely summon up the strength to put on suncreen and lay by the pool. Somehow I managed.
I think it was the dessert--fat, juicy fresh pears poached in a rich red wine sauce which we accompanied with glases of Marcella's own vin santo. We got up from the table and lurched into the living room for an evening of Scrabble and Sorry.
Tomorrow Asha and Josh leave in the early morning so I have resolved to take a long walk once I say goodbye to the happy couple to make up for today's delicious laziness.
I think it was the dessert--fat, juicy fresh pears poached in a rich red wine sauce which we accompanied with glases of Marcella's own vin santo. We got up from the table and lurched into the living room for an evening of Scrabble and Sorry.
Tomorrow Asha and Josh leave in the early morning so I have resolved to take a long walk once I say goodbye to the happy couple to make up for today's delicious laziness.
Friday, May 15, 2009
An Excursion
The Kaufman clan is here--Elliott, Jeelu, Asha and Josh--and have oh-so-quickly acclimatized themselves to the rhythm of life here at Cassalocce. That means sleeping late, playing bocce or just chilling by the pool or hot tub, taking long walks at the end of the day in preparation for yet another fantastic dinner alla Marcella then toddling up to bed thoroughly satiated and perhaps just a little inebriated after a fierce game of Sorry or Scrabble. Truly, the simple life.
Today, to break the "monotony," we all piled into the car and headed out for an excursion. I should clarify. Not all of us. Steve remained behind determined not to miss the leftover pollo alla grigliata from last night's dinner for his lunch. But the five of us were game for an afternoon of exploration supported by our trusty GPS system which spouts directions in Italian, of course.
We headed for Montapulciano, a charming (aren't they all!) Renaissance town high up on a hill overlooking vineyards and rolling fields of olive trees and wheat. Somehow, I can't imagine ever tiring of this landscape. Once there we ambled slowly up and down the narrow streets, fortunately nearly empty of tourists this time of year and walked through the main piazza with its rather grim church. I love how clean these little towns are--no graffiti, not a speck of litter on the streets--all the window boxes sporting bright red and pink and purple geraniums, wonderful wooden doors with polished antique knockers, terracotta tiled roofs and old bricks the color of the sun.
It was 2 o'clock and time for a meal so we scoped out the possibilities and decided on a tiny cafe with just the right vibe. (As my daughter Elizabeth has taught me, it is all about the vibe.) What a treat! The waiter was a very earnest and adorable young man who carefully explained the menu to us and each ingredient's local provenance, had us taste a number of local organic wines before having us choose a bottle for lunch, and then brought numerous bottles of olive oil and specified exactly what they should be poured on. Out of the kitchen came a slender young woman, his wife and the chef. Although we ate relatively lightly--assorted bruschetta and then a seleczioni of local cheeses and meats--all was delicious and prepared with real care. Definitely worth a repeat visit, we all decided.
Today, to break the "monotony," we all piled into the car and headed out for an excursion. I should clarify. Not all of us. Steve remained behind determined not to miss the leftover pollo alla grigliata from last night's dinner for his lunch. But the five of us were game for an afternoon of exploration supported by our trusty GPS system which spouts directions in Italian, of course.
We headed for Montapulciano, a charming (aren't they all!) Renaissance town high up on a hill overlooking vineyards and rolling fields of olive trees and wheat. Somehow, I can't imagine ever tiring of this landscape. Once there we ambled slowly up and down the narrow streets, fortunately nearly empty of tourists this time of year and walked through the main piazza with its rather grim church. I love how clean these little towns are--no graffiti, not a speck of litter on the streets--all the window boxes sporting bright red and pink and purple geraniums, wonderful wooden doors with polished antique knockers, terracotta tiled roofs and old bricks the color of the sun.
It was 2 o'clock and time for a meal so we scoped out the possibilities and decided on a tiny cafe with just the right vibe. (As my daughter Elizabeth has taught me, it is all about the vibe.) What a treat! The waiter was a very earnest and adorable young man who carefully explained the menu to us and each ingredient's local provenance, had us taste a number of local organic wines before having us choose a bottle for lunch, and then brought numerous bottles of olive oil and specified exactly what they should be poured on. Out of the kitchen came a slender young woman, his wife and the chef. Although we ate relatively lightly--assorted bruschetta and then a seleczioni of local cheeses and meats--all was delicious and prepared with real care. Definitely worth a repeat visit, we all decided.
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